It's your first time going to Colombia and you only have 10 days. Perfect.
Here's your itinerary:
4 nights in Medellín (Friday - Tuesday)
3 nights in Tayrona (Tuesday - Friday)
2 nights in Cartagena (Friday - Sunday)
Medellín
Medellín has an obvious reputation for harboring the darker side of humanity, but the current state of the city couldn’t be farther from where it was in the 90s.
Medellín is a modern metropolis and the cultural and economic capital of Colombia. It has seen a huge influx of tourism and foreign investment over the last decade and is developing faster than anywhere I’ve seen.
The culture is super open, friendly, and welcoming. I always feel safe there. And the value of goods & services bought with the Colombian peso is softer on the USD than anywhere I’ve been in the last 10 years.
Arrive on Friday. The weekend is the best time here, and you should do the city while your energy is high and you're feeling fresh.
I highly recommend staying at the Selina, where you're located perfectly in Poblado, it has everything you could want in a hotel, but also has a hostel vibe (in the cleanest, not noisest way possible) if you want to meet people.
Other than eating at 4-star restaurants for 1-star prices, here are some of the activities that Colombia is famous for, and that people usually do when they visit Medellín:
Visit Comuna 13
Spend a day in Guatapé
Cruise Ciclovia
Play Tejo - like horseshoes but with explosives
Do a free city walking tour of downtown
Shake your ass and meet some friends at a salsa lesson
Learn the mother tongue with Nueva Lengua Spanish school
Get that near-death rush without the risk - paragliding
Basically anything else you can think of
If you feel like you've been super efficient in your American ways and have conquered Medellín over the weekend then first of all - slow down. This is Colombia, we're relaxed here. And second - take an overnight trip to Guatapé. Stay at #ThatchedLuxe resort BOSKO, where you can climb El Peñol in the afternoon, relax with a massage in your room, eat an amazing Colombian-fusion dinner at a beautiful restaurant on-site, wake up to nature, eat breakfast in your private 70-foot high infinity pool, and kayak on a beautiful lake.
On Tuesday, you're feeling a little tired from all this vacation and it's time to cruise up to Tayrona where you can relax. Grab a $30 ticket on Avianca or Viva Air Colombia. Take the early flight so you can enjoy the day in the Caribbean.
Tayrona
Tayrona is a national park, located on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. Its unlike most of the Caribbean places you’ve visited for a few reasons - all resulting in superior preservation of the environment and an elevated experience for visitors:
First, the park is protected by Colombian law and everyone there takes those laws very seriously. Second, the indigenous groups of Tayrona dictate the protection of the land. They have pre-Columbian methods of tracking the health of the environment and they close down the park when they feel the energy getting out of balance. Third, this part of the coast was occupied by both the FARC and the right-wing paramilitaries during the civil war so, while the people of Colombia were being terrorized for half a century, the nature was actually being sheltered from the cruise ship hoards and xylophone music that was taking over the rest of the Caribbean. Most importantly, Colombian culture respects the land as much as Colombian law does.
The indigenous people do a great job of keeping the park pristine against the threat of tourists like us. You feel the energy as soon as you enter that part of the jungle. It's a super peaceful environment and the indigenous people have maintained an astonishingly ancestral way of life - it's pretty cool to walk among them.
Tayrona has REALLY COOL places to stay. Like bird nests built into the side of the mountain cool. I love the Senda hotels. They're very nature-luxe. But if you want to get more earthy you definitely can. You can camp, or stay at one of the many down-to-earth lodges.
Massages are $25 an hour. The seafood dishes are $12-$15 and soooo good, and even if you don't drink alcohol - please drink the mocktails. I never drink cocktails in the states, I think they're disgusting and I get hungover just thinking about them but I swear I feel healthier after drinking the cocktails in Tayrona.
The trek to Cabo San Juan (a beach 4 miles from the park entrance) is one of the main reasons that people go to Tayrona. It’s an pleasant, flat trek that goes between the jungle and the beach, 1.5-3 hours each way, and you can camp at San Juan if you're a camper. I highly recommend doing this trek if you come all the way here. That being said - the indigenous people have said that they might be closing down the park more than the usual 3x annually in 2022/2023 due to increased activity, so there is always a chance that the park will be closed when we’re there, in which case you wouldn’t be able to do the trek. If this happens you can just spend more time relaxing poolside, eating seafood and drinking jungle juice - and there are plenty of other hikes and interesting places for the restless to discover.
And its one of the most biodiverse areas of the world. You'll see boa, cayman, - $1 if you spot the super rare Cotton-Top Tamarin!
Theatrical trailers of the park:
Somos Dos: a music video shot in Tayrona by a Colombian band called Bomba Estereo
Playa Grande: another music video by Bomba Estereo, with Sofi Tukker - shot outside of the park (and also in metaverse, apparently)
Now that you're all natured out and ready for your last hurrah in the city, it's time to move on to Cartagena. The bad news is that you have to take a 4-hour bus ride (it's only $12 and your hotel can set it up, or you can take a $90 cab)
The good news is that Cartagena is fucking amazing.
Cartagena
In the 15th century, Cartagena was essentially a layover for Peruvian silver going to Spain, which made it an obvious target for pirates and privateers, including the famed Sir Frances Drake. In 1594, after a series of attacks, Spain finally drew up plans for a walled city. Cut to today’s Cartagena and you have a romantic-colonial fortified city. It has 3 distinct neighborhoods - each within a few minutes' walk from the others.
Getsemaní is a colorful hipster area where the backpackers hang out. Great vibes.
Bocagrande is the modern area with beaches and skyscrapers. I recommend skipping this area altogether, its touristy and has a cruise ship port vibe.
Downtown is where you should spend most of your time, imo. It has a super aesthetic modern-colonial look and feel. People move through narrow cobblestone streets to get from the swanky bars to the restaurants on foot or horse-drawn carriage.
If you’re a shopper this is your place to buy breathable but stylish Caribbean fashion in natural and colorful patterns. Also look out for emerald and gold-plated brass jewelry, bikinis, and coffee. Unfortunately, Cartagena has gotten a bit more crowded since BC, so expect some street salesmen with annoyingly repetitive pickup lines (“where you from,” “what you looking for?,” and “you smoke marijuana,” mainly) - but if don’t engage they’ll leave you alone.
Some don't miss restaurants:
Carmen's: When you make a res, reserve the 7-course with wine pairing in the outdoor seating, but when you arrive ask if you can sit at the bar, and then ask for Luke - introduce yourself he'll take care of you.
Candé: This restaurant is the nexus of Cartagena and luxe. Click here to make a res
1621: Used to be a convent, now serves amazing 10-course experiences. Sit inside for upscale dining or in the garden for amazing food and the opportunity to interact with a Colombian wedding (the Sofitel is one of the most famous places for weddings here)
Here's a list of The Most Beautiful Restaurants in Cartagena - and how much they cost
You can also try out some of the street food if you want to get your feet wet before committing to a brick & mortar experience - here is a list of street food to try
Some don't miss bars:
Cuba 1940: I know it seems weird to go to a place called "Cuba" when you're in Cartagena but trust me, its a vibe. Usually with a live band and basic, inexpensive drinks.
Alquimico: Really cool, 4-story spot with top mixologists, some food, and usually a band.
Mirador Gastro Bar: This place literally has it all. Another 4-story venue with a brunch spot, a coffee bar, a rooftop (yes, with a band), and disco club.
Spend your time eating, drinking, shopping, watching the Colombians vacation, listening to live music, and feeling the mid-century vibes.
