
Glaciers, penguins, gauchos, and actual prices
Your perfect 10-day Patagonia itinerary with prices (2026)
I’m a city person. Manhattan, Mexico City, Buenos Aires — that’s my comfort zone. So when I thought of Patagonia I always pictured a lot of hiking in silence and sleeping in tents.
I could not have been more wrong.
The food is unreal — wood-fired steaks, handmade pasta, craft beer brewed with glacial water, and more chocolate shops than a Swiss airport.
The culture is this wild mix of Swiss-Alpine influence, Argentine gaucho tradition, and cowboy-ranch energy that somehow works perfectly together.
And the nature? Turquoise lakes, snow-capped volcanoes, glaciers you can walk on.
It’s dramatic in the best way.
We went as a big group — about 30 of us for my brother’s honeymoon — and that was the move.
It was surprisingly easy to organize. Jk, we had a travel agent (the incredible Silvana Martinez) who handled the logistics, and we stayed in genuinely luxurious hotels the entire time — lake views, spas, modern design.
It was this perfect mix of luxury and outdoors. I felt kind of like Hemingway — just with better hotels. This ended up being one of my favorite trips I’ve ever taken, and I will absolutely be going back. So here’s the full itinerary — every stop, every restaurant, every e-bike rental, and what it all actually costs — because I want you to do this trip.
Your perfect 10-day Patagonia itinerary with prices (2026)
TLDR; Table of Contents
Your 10-day route · north to south
Patagonia,
Argentina
4 cities · 10 days · 1,400 km of wild
Every Patagonia trip starts here.
The Paris of South America — with the steaks, the wine, and the late-night energy to match.
de Bariloche
Patagonia's little Switzerland — chocolate shops, Andean peaks, and a lake that doesn't look real.
Angostura
A quiet mountain village tucked on the lake — where the hotel is the whole point.
The glacier capital of the world — walk on ancient ice, then watch Perito Moreno calve from a boat at sunset.
The southernmost city on Earth. We ended our trip at the literal end of the world — and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
Bariloche · Day 1
Arrive, explore downtown, chocolate & chill
This is your first day in Patagonia. Chill out, walk around downtown, and eat your weight in chocolate and fondue. This is Swiss Patagonia, after all. And tomorrow's a big cycling day so you gotta carbo-load (is that even a real thing?)
Browse Calle Mitre (the main downtown drag), drink mate with a lake view.
No itinerary. Just vibes.
What to Eat
Bariloche's food scene is classic Patagonian comfort meets Andean alpine cuisine — smoky trout, Patagonian lamb, hearty stews, homemade pastas, mountain chocolate, and tapped-right-here craft beer.
You'll find everything from cozy wooden lodges to sleek modern steak spots.
Dinner reservations get competitive in high season, especially anywhere with lake views or lamb on the menu, but I would just wander and eat throughout the day. A food crawl, if you will.
Foods to Try in BarilocheSwiss-Style Fondue: You're basically in a Swiss village set in Argentina, so you're going to want to indulge in that creamy European Velveeta — and you're going to want to do it in the most indulgent manner possible: in a cast-iron bowl.
La Marmite: A cozy, fondue-forward Bariloche classic right in the center of town, perfect when you want something fun, warm, and culturally Alpine. I went here with a group and ordered a couple of the classic cheese fondues as a pre-dinner snack.
The sides were a bunch of dried meats — not totally my thing (I really only ate the pickles and wine), but I’m picky. If you like sausage, ham, or cured meats, you’ll enjoy the full spread. It’s cute, it’s atmospheric, and it scratches that “Swiss-Patagonia” itch before you head somewhere else for a real meal.
Chocolate: For a more formal way to eat chocolate, and also for the best gift ever, visit these places:
Bariloche's most iconic chocolate shop — bright red, Eastern-European-inspired, and packed with truffles, bars, and molded chocolates that locals actually buy for themselves (not just tourists). It's the city's true chocolate institution.
A Bariloche legend since 1939, famous for its chocolate, gelato, and especially its insanely good chocolate ice cream — and the store even has a full ice-skating rink inside. It's touristy but undeniably fun and worth the stop.
This place looks like a high-end jewelry store, but instead of diamonds, the glass cases are filled with some of the most beautiful (and delicious) chocolates in Bariloche. Perfect for gifts or treating yourself.
Frantom Chocolates: A longtime local favorite known for its big chocolate boxes, which are the classic Bariloche gift. It's a little more old-school and low-key, but consistently good and very authentically Bariloche.
The best chocolate bar? Chocolate Marroc from Rapa Nui — grab one (or five).
Drinks to Try in Bariloche
Craft beer: Bariloche is the craft beer capital of Argentina — and it's not even close. The city has over 30 microbreweries crammed into a town of 130,000 people, most of them using glacial lake water and locally grown hops.
The scene started in the '90s when a handful of homebrewers realized that Patagonia's cold climate and pure water were basically made for brewing. Now it's a full-blown beer destination.
You'll find everything from smoky Scottish ales and German-style bocks to hoppy IPAs and wild-fermented sours. Downtown has plenty of taprooms worth ducking into, especially along Calle Mitre and the surrounding blocks. The big-name breweries are on the Circuito Chico — you'll hit those on bike day.
Mate: Bariloche has traditional tea rooms and a lot of them are on the lake with outdoor seating and patisserie, and all of them have mate.
If you don't know what this is or why it's so special, you can read a little bit about it here. Here's where you can try out this very special Argentinian tradition:
- Casa de Té Blend: Calm, modern tea house with lake views where you can drink mate alongside pastries and light bites in a super chill setting.
- Equs: Stylish café-restaurant known for its pretty plates, warm atmosphere, and a solid mate service that feels more elevated than casual.
- Chiado: A cozy, European-leaning café with homemade pastries and strong coffee that also serves mate for a slow, scenic break.
- Paila Co Salón de Té: A classic Bariloche tearoom with a big pastry case and panoramic lake views, perfect for sitting outside with a mate on a sunny day.
- Meiling Tea House: A blogger-beloved hilltop tea house in a residential neighborhood, known for its quiet atmosphere, homemade cakes, and mate — worth the little trek for the views alone.
- Bellevue Salón de Té: A charming lakeside tea salon with big windows and a relaxed, old-school vibe where mate is served alongside pastries and afternoon snacks.
- Vertiente Café Con Ideas: A creative, cozy café that locals gush about — great coffee, welcoming atmosphere, and confirmed mate service if you want something more modern than traditional.
Guided Mate Tours: These tours were priced quite high when we visited, but the pricing appears to have come down since then — definitely worth checking out if you're interested in going deeper into the tradition with a guided experience.
Where to Shop
Bariloche's shopping is all about artisan goods, chocolate, and outdoor gear — think hand-knit wool sweaters, leather goods, handmade knives with deer antler handles, locally sourced alpaca silver jewelry, and boxes of chocolate so beautiful they look like they belong in a gallery.
The quality is surprisingly high and the prices (thanks to the Argentine peso) are shockingly low. If you're buying gifts for anyone back home, this is the city to do it.
Calle Mitre — Bariloche's main downtown strip. This is where you'll find the chocolate shops, outdoor gear stores, artisan goods, and souvenir spots. Just walk it end to end and you'll find everything.
Light Activities for the Relaxed Day
Kayaking on Lago Nahuel Huapi
Kayaking here is easier, cheaper, and warmer than in El Calafate — no glaciers, no drysuits, no drama. You can DIY kayak with outfitters along the shore. It's peaceful, scenic, and great for beginners.
💵 Price: $25–$40 per person
⏰ Time: 1–3 hours
📍 Location: Playa Bonita & Circuito Chico
Beaches at Villa Llao Llao or Playa Bonita
Bariloche has actual beaches, which shocks people. In summer, you can find real people going for a swim, sunbathing, having picnics, and doing that whole summer-camp vibes thing.
💵 Price: Free
⏰ Time: 1–3 hours
📍 Location: Circuito Chico & Bustillo Ave
Cerro Campanario: A short chairlift ride takes you to a viewpoint where five lakes are visible from a single spot. Gorgeous on a clear day. There's a café at the top.
Alternative: Sushi Sailboat Day
If you're not a huge shopper and would rather spend the day on the water than downtown, a sushi sailing trip is one of the best things to do in Bariloche — calm water, mountain backdrops, and a very relaxed vibe. And did we mention there would be sushi?
Walking Tours for the Evening
Bariloche's two most popular walking tours are actually pretty dark but sound really interesting and are rated really highly — especially the Nazi one:
- The German Footprint and Nazi Presence Tour: A guided walk through Bariloche's complex German immigration history that explores rumored Nazi ties, post-WWII arrivals, and the cultural footprint they left behind.
- Patagonia Indigenous People's Tour: An immersive look at the region's original Mapuche and Tehuelche communities, focusing on their history, land, traditions, and the living Indigenous culture that still shapes Patagonia today.
Bariloche · Day 2
The Circuito Chico by e-bike
There are two types of people in Bariloche: those who cycle it, and those who are doing it wrong.
The 25-kilometer loop that winds around the base of Cerro López and along the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi is the single best thing you can do here — my second favorite day on the entire Patagonia trip. (#1 was the glacier cruise, but calm down, we'll get to it.)
You must e-bike it. On foot it takes forever. In a car you miss everything. On a regular bike, you will suffer.
Get an E-Bike. Non-Negotiable.
Everyone in our group cycles. A few are Ironmen. And we still would not have made it through this route on regular bikes without completely destroying the day.
The Circuito Chico has real elevation. The hills would be manageable if all you were doing was riding — but you're not. You're stopping constantly: breweries, shops, viewpoints, that one spot where a hawk landed on a fence post and everyone lost their minds.
By kilometer 15 on a regular bike, your legs are done and you're bitter af, starting fights with your husband about something he did before you even left for Patagonia. On an e-bike, you're still having the time of your life at kilometer 24. This is not a fitness thing. This is a logistics thing. Get the e-bike so you can enjoy the ride — you can exercise literally any other time.
🗺️ Circuito Chico Route Map
25 km · 9 stops · 1 unforgettable day
Download the Full Google Maps Route
Get the clickable route with all 9 stops pinned — open it on your phone and ride.
No spam, ever. Just the route link + our best Patagonia tips.
The Route — What to Stop For
The whole trip takes 3 hours if you're standing on business, 6 hours going leisurely. Go clockwise — the views open up better in that direction and you'll tackle the harder climbing while your legs are fresh.
Stop 1 — Cerveza Patagonia (KM 24.7)
The best stop on the circuit and should be your main lunch stop — lawn chairs, hearty biking snacks, beer flights, and tasting tours. The brewery sits right on the lake with a sprawling deck and a backdrop that makes you question whether this is really your life. We stopped for one round and stayed for three.
Go hungry — they have food. The beers are great. The view is better.


Cerveza Patagonia on the Circuito Chico
While we were there, a Ford crew had set up a full grill pop-up operation outside the kitchen with famous Argentine chef Lele Cristóbal, as part of his Historias de Estación food route series. We actually knew to come for it because my brother-in-law (also a chef) recognized him on the plane the day before and he told us what he was up to. The serendipitous energy of Patagonia never disappoints.
A bakery and small restaurant tucked along the route that's easy to blow past. Don't. The baked goods are exactly what you want mid-ride — empanadas, pastries, coffee. Uber charming, local, no frills.
Stop 3 — Morena Llao Llao
An artisan shop selling natural fiber textiles, handwoven clothing, home goods, and some of the most beautiful knives you'll see outside a museum. The blades are Seigen Hygieia stainless steel with handles made from alpaca silver and deer antler.
Also carries pieces by Jengibre Tejidos a Mano — a handwoven line by local artisan Paola Crespo from Bariloche.
Fair warning: this shop has a specific energy that makes perfectly sane adults buy things they have no plan for. One of our group purchased a full-size wooden chair. We rode back to Bariloche with it strapped to an e-bike. It was fine. Mostly.
One of the most iconic luxury hotels in South America, sitting on a peninsula between two lakes with the Andes stacked behind it. You don't need to be a guest to stop out front and take it in.
It looks like a national park lodge built with an unlimited budget — because it basically was. Opened in 1938, burned down, rebuilt. Worth the stop even if you're arriving sweaty in bike shorts.
Want to stay? Rates start around $500+ USD/night.
Stop 5 — Cerro Campanario
Technically a detour off the main loop, but worth it if you have time. A short chairlift ride takes you to a viewpoint where five lakes are visible from a single spot. Gorgeous on a clear day. There's a café at the top.
Stop 6 — Colonia SuizaA small Swiss-founded village especially worth visiting on weekends when there's a market. We didn't make it — by the time we finished at Morena and the hotel, we were racing the light back. On the list for next time.
Stop 7 — Berlina CerveceríaBerlina is about 40 minutes of extra biking off the main circuit. If you're in great shape or really love craft beer, it's worth the detour. Otherwise, save it for a cab ride on the way back to town after you return the bikes.
Stop 8 — Cerro Llao Llao viewpointA short hike off the main circuit to one of the best panoramic viewpoints on the route. You'll see Lago Nahuel Huapi, Lago Moreno, and the Hotel Llao Llao peninsula all from one spot. The trail is well-marked and takes about 30–40 minutes round trip. If you only do one viewpoint hike on this ride, make it this one.
Stop 9 — Back to Circuito Chico Adventure (return bikes)The loop ends right where it started — back at Circuito Chico Adventure on Avenida Bustillo. Drop off the e-bikes, take one last look at the lake, and give yourself a pat on the back. You just did the best day in Bariloche.
Our friends in this photo did do the horseback riding on the Circuito Chico and they had a great time — but my recommendation is to do the horses any other time because the bike ride was so epic.
Jengibre Tejidos a Mano
Before dinner, stop into Jengibre — a very cute artisan shop right next to (or attached to) Alto el Fuego. It's all handwoven textiles by local artisan Paola Crespo, made right here in Bariloche. Ruanas, scarves, bags — everything is hand-knit from natural fibers and the price tags are hilariously reasonable for the quality. We picked up a ruana for 220,000 ARS (~$20 USD at the time).
The shop is part of El Mercado Artesanal, a local artisan market that's been operating since 1974 under the Secretary of Culture of Río Negro Province. Every piece is sold on consignment — 100% of the money goes directly to the artisan. The black-and-white photos on the walls tell the story of the Mapuche weaving traditions these pieces come from.
Alto el Fuego — Estación de Tren
After a full day on bikes, you want meat. Go to Alto el Fuego. The restaurant is set inside Bariloche's old train station — a nearly century-old building that somehow makes everything taste better. This is proper Argentine asado: rib eye, braided skirt steak, sweetbreads, Patagonian lamb. Everything comes off the grill.
There are two locations: La Estación on Av. 12 de Octubre 1923 (takes reservations — use this one) and a downtown location on 20 de Febrero 451 that's walk-in only. Dinner runs Monday–Saturday from 7:30 PM.
If you're completely destroyed from the bike ride (fair), the restaurant at Design Suites is a totally decent fallback. The food is solid, the lake view at dinner is gorgeous, and you don't have to put real pants on. Alto el Fuego is better, but nobody will judge you for eating at the hotel after a 25-kilometer ride.
Bariloche · Day 3
Gaucho culture, horseback riding & asado
You've biked the Circuito Chico. You've eaten your weight in chocolate and fondue. Now it's time to do the most Argentine thing possible: saddle up a criollo horse, ride through Patagonian countryside, and eat meat that's been cooking over an open fire since before you woke up.
This is gaucho culture — Argentina's version of the American cowboy — except they've been doing it longer, they dress better, and they're way more into mate.
They're traditionally nomadic horsemen of the Argentine pampas and Patagonian steppe who've been herding cattle, breaking horses, and grilling entire animals over open flames for centuries.
Their cooking tradition — the asado — is basically Argentina's national cuisine: whole cuts of beef, lamb, chorizo, and sweetbreads slow-cooked over an open wood fire for hours.
A cabalgata (horseback ride) is the way to go here. You don't need riding experience — the criollo horses are calm, sure-footed, and bred for exactly this kind of terrain. You show up, they match you with a horse, and you spend the day on trails that cars can't reach.
On an estancia visit, you'll see the full picture: the parrilla (the grill), the facón (the gaucho's signature knife), the bombachas (the baggy riding pants), and probably like 5–10 dogs that look like they run the place. It's one of those cultural experiences that feels nothing like tourism and everything like being invited into someone's life for a day.
Three ways to do it
We looked into three cabalgata options near Bariloche, and they're all great but very different vibes. Pick the one that matches your energy.
Option 1: La Fragua at Estancia San Ramón
This is the one if you want the full experience.
La Fragua operates out of Estancia San Ramón, a 62,000-acre working ranch about 45 minutes outside Bariloche, where the landscape shifts from lakefront forest to wide-open Patagonian steppe — rolling hills, creek crossings, and rock formations that feel like a different planet from downtown.
The day starts with a traditional criollo breakfast at the ranch.
Then you head out on a 2-hour cabalgata through open fields and small streams with views of the Andes in every direction. The horses are gentle and the pace is relaxed — families do this, no experience necessary.
When you get back, there's a full countryside asado waiting: chorizo, ojo de bife (ribeye), chicken, salads, wine, and panqueques con dulce de leche for dessert. Everything comes off an open-fire parrilla. You eat outside. You drink Malbec. You get on Zillow to see if there are any Patagonian ranches listed nearby and in your price range.
During the ride you might spot deer and, if you're lucky, an Andean condor — the largest flying land bird in the world.
This is the option for people who want horseback riding AND craft beer in the same afternoon, and who are we to judge.
The Wesley family has been on this land since the 1940s, when Eduardo Wesley settled here after WWII.
His son Tom grew up riding at the foot of Cerro Campanario and eventually turned those childhood trails into guided cabalgatas for visitors. Tom is a trained equestrian instructor with Outward Bound credentials — this isn't some touristy pony ride.
The 3-hour Lago Moreno ride follows Tom's original paths: quiet rural tracks, forested stretches, and a long section along the east shore of the lake with panoramic views of López, Goye, Capilla, and Bella Vista.
You ride through woods and plains, loop around Cerro Campanario, and come back through El Trébol lagoon with views of Lago Nahuel Huapi and the San Pedro peninsula.
When you're done, you walk — bowlegged, like John Wayne, and also Nathan Lane in The Birdcage — straight into the family's Wesley Brewery & Distillery, which is on the same property.
Cold craft beer, solid food, views. So cool.
If you want the most authentic, personal gaucho experience — small group, no frills, real ranch life — this is it.
Carol Jones is a genuine gaucha.
She's the granddaughter of Jared Jones, a Texan who was one of the first settlers in the area, and she grew up on Estancia Nahuel Huapi across the lake from Bariloche. She inherited the ranch and turned it into one of the most respected riding operations in Patagonia.
The rides are small groups through quiet countryside — valleys, open steppe, rivers, and forests inside Nahuel Huapi National Park.
Half-day rides run about two hours. Full-day outings include a homemade countryside lunch. Carol also offers overnight rides if you're really about it.
This is the slowest, most local option. There's no brewpub attached, no big ranch operation — just a woman who's been riding these trails her entire life showing you the Patagonia that most tourists never see.
Where to eat tonight
Where to eat tonight
If you did the La Fragua full-day option, you had a massive asado for lunch and you're not eating again until tomorrow. That's normal. Go drink Malbec at the hotel and call it a night.
If you did one of the shorter rides and you're actually hungry, head to El Boliche de Alberto — Bariloche's most iconic steak restaurant. It's loud, packed, smoky in the best way, and the rib eye is legendary. Get there early or expect a wait.
Villa La Angostura
A tiny lake village with the best hotel in Patagonia
Villa La Angostura sits on the western shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, about 80 kilometers from Bariloche. It is small, quiet, and almost aggressively beautiful — no cruise-ship crowds, no tourist buses, just forest, water, and mountains in every direction.
We came for Las Balsas and stayed for everything else. The Los Arrayanes National Park is a short boat ride away — a forest of cinnamon-bark arrayán trees that doesn't look like anything else on earth. There's a golf course with mountain views where you can barely concentrate on the game. And there's the lake itself, which you will spend a lot of time just looking at.
If Bariloche is where you go for activity and energy, Villa La Angostura is where you go to slow down and actually feel where you are.
Quick facts
- ✈️ Airport: Bariloche International Airport (BRC) — 1-hour scenic drive along Lago Nahuel Huapi
- 🌡️ Weather: 45–65°F (7–18°C) in summer — breezy, layers recommended, mornings are cold
- ☀️ Best time to visit: November–March — wildflowers, hiking season, lake activities at full swing
- 🏔️ Known for: Los Arrayanes National Park, Las Balsas Relais & Châteaux, golf with mountain views, lake sailing
- 💰 Vibe: Tiny, quiet Patagonian village — no tourist rush, private lake access, old-growth forest
How to get there
Buenos Aires to Villa La Angostura
Fly into Bariloche (BRC) — it's the same airport for both Bariloche and Villa La Angostura.
Flights from Buenos Aires and El Calafate run ~$147 USD per person on Aerolíneas Argentinas (2h05, nonstop).
From BRC, it's an 80km drive west along Ruta 231 hugging the south shore of Nahuel Huapi. The drive takes about an hour and is one of the most beautiful roads you will ever be on — lake on one side, Andes on the other.
If you're doing the same route we did (Bariloche → Villa La Angostura → El Calafate), book your rental car or transfer from BRC in advance. Don't count on taxis between cities.
Search flights to Bariloche (BRC) below:
The fisherman's transfer (if you have the right guy)
My husband is an avid fisherman, and he did a lot of legwork to find a fishing guide who would pick him up in Bariloche, take him fly fishing all day, and then drop him off in Villa La Angostura at the end of the trip.
So much cooler than our bus ride.
He and one of our other outdoorsy friends spent the day on the water catching trout, and showed up to the hotel happy, sunburned, and tipsy. When I texted my husband mid-day and asked how it was going, he responded: "best day of our lives." Such a creative way to get from Point A to Point B.
Tip: Comment on this article if you want the fisherman's phone number. It's not a 'book online' kind of situation.
How many days in Villa La Angostura
Plan on 2–3 nights. You need one full day for Los Arrayanes, one for golf and the lake, and one day just to exist at Las Balsas without feeling like you need to leave. Two nights is the minimum. Three is better.
Getting around Villa La Angostura
The town itself is walkable — the main strip is about 10 minutes end to end. For the national park, golf club, and scenic drives, you'll want a rental car or a hotel transfer. Las Balsas can arrange most of this for you. Taxis exist but are limited.
Things to do in Villa La Angostura
Villa La Angostura is slower than Bariloche and El Calafate — and that's the point. The best things here involve the water, the forest, and a glass of Malbec on a dock.
Los Arrayanes National Park
A boat trip from the port of Villa La Angostura takes you to a forest of arrayán trees — ancient cinnamon-bark trees with twisted trunks that are cool to the touch and completely unlike anything else in Patagonia. Walk the forest loop, have lunch, come back. Walt Disney was supposedly inspired by this forest for Bambi. You'll believe it.
Kayaking on Lago Nahuel Huapi
Paddle the glacier-blue waters of Nahuel Huapi with a guide — the views of the Andes from the water are completely different from anything you get on land. All skill levels, drysuits and gear provided. One of those activities that sounds optional until you're actually doing it.
Golf at Club de Golf Villa La Angostura
9 holes with the Andes as your backdrop and almost no one else on the course. It's not a bucket-list golf experience in the Augusta sense — it's better, because it's completely unpretentious and unbelievably scenic. Even if you haven't golfed in years, do it here.
Where to stay in Villa La Angostura
Las Balsas Relais & Châteaux
There is one obvious answer: Las Balsas Relais & Châteaux. It is a Relais & Châteaux property sitting on its own private stretch of lake — 15 rooms, a dock, and a restaurant that was one of the best meals of the entire trip. Book it. Don't talk yourself out of it.
Where to shop in Villa La Angostura
The main shopping strip runs through the town center — small boutiques, artisan wool goods, local chocolates, and handmade ceramics. It's a 10-minute walk from end to end and genuinely charming.
What to buy: Patagonian wool sweaters and scarves, locally made chocolates, handmade leather goods, artisan ceramics, and small-batch jams made from native berries.
Hang out at Las Balsas
Las Balsas Relais & Châteaux
This hotel is the main reason Villa La Angostura made the top of my list.
Las Balsas is on the Relais & Châteaux list, set right on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi, and it's one of Patagonia's iconic boutique luxury properties.
But what surprised me is that it's not even that expensive for what you get.
The vibe is old-school lakehouse meets European luxury.
Floor-to-ceiling lake views, a deep-blue façade that even the worst photographer can make look like a dream. Fireplaces everywhere, curated art on the walls, and the kind of service where everyone knows your name but nobody hovers.
The property winds and has so many different environments but somehow feels very cohesive. Each room is different and feels very bespoke. You can't go wrong. But you can go right.
One of the people in our group got the villa, and I actually just took my luggage and moved into it. I'm not kidding. That's how much I loved it. The villas are standalone lakefront houses with their own living rooms, fireplaces, and private terraces — if you're traveling with family or want more space, they're absolutely worth the upgrade.
We had a group of 26 and this hotel handled it beautifully. There's a super scenic indoor/outdoor heated pool, a full spa with saunas, a private beach and dock, kayaking directly from the property, and garden terraces overlooking the water. I got the best massage of my entire life here.
If you're the kind of person who's been going nonstop and you're ready to just… stop, this is your place. Read a magazine by the pool. Sit in the lobby with a glass of wine. Stare at the lake from your room with a cup of coffee. The hotel is the activity.
Tip: Also the best massage I've ever gotten was at Las Balsas. Book the spa early, especially if you're traveling with a group.
If you venture out: Nicoletto Pastas
If you do leave the hotel for lunch, Nicoletto Pastas is a cute little Italian spot in town. We went the day we arrived and it was exactly the kind of low-key, carb-heavy meal you want after traveling.
Dinner: the tasting menu at Las Balsas
I am not an advocate of staying in, seriously. But at Las Balsas, you stay in.
The restaurant at Las Balsas does a tasting menu with wine pairings that was one of the best meals of the entire trip.
You've been going hard — biking, horseback riding, eating your way through Bariloche. Tonight you eat at the hotel, drink at the tiny bar, maybe get a massage, and go to bed early. It's chill af and it's exactly what you need.
If you need to move: hikes near Villa La Angostura
If you're an ants-in-your-pants kind of person and you can't sit still, there are some major hikes around Villa La Angostura. Our group did one small hike, but we were in full relaxation mode at this point. A few options if you want them:
A forest of cinnamon-colored myrtle trees on the Quetrihue Peninsula. You can hike in or take a boat. It's the forest that reportedly inspired the woods in Bambi.
A short, easy waterfall hike right outside town. Good for stretching your legs without committing to a full day.
A ski resort in winter, but in summer you can take the chairlift up for panoramic views or do the longer summit hike.
Ruca & Kuyen Golf & Resort
There's a golf course within walking distance of Las Balsas, and it's the most low-key golf you'll ever play. We grabbed a five, a wedge, a putter, and a seven iron, carried our own balls and some wine, and just walked around. No carts, no dress code, no rush.
Where to shop in Villa La Angostura
Villa La Angostura has the same wool-sweater, poncho, and artisanal-chocolate vibe as Bariloche, but smaller and more boutique-cabin.
Think small-batch chocolates, local craft beer, handwoven textiles, woodcarved decor, and mate sets in cute design-y shops.
Most of the shopping is along Avenida Arrayanes — that's where you'll find restaurants, cafés, chocolate shops, and small outdoor-gear stores. There are also smaller galleries and artisan stalls sprinkled through town and near the civic area. Good for quick stops between lake time and dinner.
Villa La Angostura · Day 5
Horseback riding at Montahue
Day #2 in Villa La Angostura is to play cowboy.
Cabalgatas Y Cuatriciclos Montahue has a 90-minute horseback ride through the foothills of Nahuel Huapi National Park — a very chill day that ended up being my favorite part of the whole trip.
This tiny husband-and-wife ranch on the edge of town does horseback riding, ATV tours, and an optional lunch upgrade that's one of the best meals we had in all of Patagonia.
The horseback ride
My dad knew I really wanted to do horses but it was super hard to find a spot in Villa La Angostura, surprisingly. So he spent a bunch of time texting random people he found in blogs and ended up connecting with Cabalgatas Y Cuatriciclos Montahue.
We booked the 90-minute ride with the lunch upgrade — $90 USD for the ride, plus $70 for lunch.
There's a 3-hour ride option if you want more, but 90 minutes was plenty for our soft asses.
Our group of 8 saddled up and headed out along trails winding through the national park foothills with views of the Andes.
The horses are calm and well-trained. When an animal came through and spooked the horses they just kind of moved back a little — not like the one that bucked me off down the side of the mountain when I was riding through Cocora Valley in Colombia last month.
The guides matched everyone to the right horse and kept the pace relaxed. There's space, scenery, and room to breathe. It's perfect for beginners, but not boring if you know what you're doing.
The lunch
After the ride, we sat down to a homemade lunch that completely caught us off guard. The setting is ultra-authentic — modest and rustic. So I was expecting the food, cooked by the owners, to match that energy.
But this meal was shockingly proper. The dichotomy kind of blew us away, like rustic-meets-refined. I really can't think of another instance where I had food that was so good, presented so nicely in such a genuinely humble atmosphere.
I started asking the owners about their operation. They didn't seem super interested in expanding, but I loved this experience so much I really wanted to take the whole group back so I started looking at ways that we could cram 18 people into the tiny space.
We moved some boxes around in the storage area, decided we could squeeze 12 onto an 8-person table and then I asked if they could do it for dinner in 5 hours. They were so relaxed they just kind of shrugged and said, "what time?"
I texted the group chat, "I have a dinner spot, you gotta trust me."
That eveningThe dinner that became the best night of the trip
OK so my favorite moment of the trip.
We show up a little before sunset, drink some amazing Malbec and hang out at the ranch. There are horses (obviously), and dogs, chickens, whatever other animals live on farms, and the sweetest kitty ever.
The men talked shop and cut things up outside and then the owners did the full asado over open fire, right next to the table. The dinner was even better than the lunch.
Toward the end, a dude walked in with a guitar and performed for about an hour. It was movie-esque, but better because it was unplanned.
There's this amazing juxtaposition of Cabalgatas Y Cuatriciclos Montahue.
The food situation is polished, like kind of upscale. But the setting is this raw, authentic, working ranch. Cats on the windowsill. Smoke from the grill — indoors. A family that genuinely loves what they do and opens their home to strangers. That combination made this night unforgettable.
If you're in Villa La Angostura with a group, WhatsApp them and ask about dinner.
El Calafate
Gateway to the glaciers
El Calafate, Argentina is the gateway to Los Glaciares National Park and Perito Moreno Glacier — one of the only advancing glaciers on the planet. Settled on the shores of Lago Argentino, it's a quiet, unassuming town with the kind of scenery that makes you forget to check your phone.
This is glacier trekking, blue-on-blue lakes, the Patagonian steppe, estancia culture, and sparse-but-awesome wildlife. It feels remote and luxurious at the same time — the Patagonia postcard.
Hearing that thundering glacier crack for the first time was crazy. Catching it on camera: life-altering.
Quick facts
- ✈️ Airport: El Calafate International Airport (FTE) — 25-minute taxi to town
- 🌡️ Weather: 40s–60°F (5–15°C) — windy, layer up, glaciers are even colder
- ☀️ Best time to visit: October–March — Dec/Jan peak, shoulder months less crowded
- 🏔️ Known for: Perito Moreno Glacier, Los Glaciares National Park, glacier trekking, Captain's Club VIP cruise, Patagonian steak
- 💰 Vibe: Small-town Alaska meets Patagonian steppe — remote, rugged, quietly spectacular
Getting to El Calafate
Most travelers fly into El Calafate International Airport (FTE) — it's a 3-hour direct flight from Buenos Aires, and there are also seasonal connections from Ushuaia and other Patagonia hubs. From the airport, it's a quick 25-minute taxi or shuttle ride into town.
If you're coming from Buenos Aires, there are multiple direct flights daily on Aerolíneas Argentinas. We paid ~$297 for two (~$148 per person) for the 3h15 nonstop from Buenos Aires to El Calafate.
Search flights to El Calafate (FTE) below:
Getting around El Calafate
You have three main options: rental cars if you want to save money, taxis if cash is flowing, or tour shuttles if you don't mind crowds. Most hotels also offer free shuttle service into town.
How many days in El Calafate
Plan on 3–4 nights. You need one full day for Perito Moreno, one for the glacier cruise, and one for arriving and eating. If you want to add an El Chaltén day trip, add a night.
Things to do in El Calafate
El Calafate is all about the glaciers and the steppe. Here's what's worth your time — each of these gets its own deep-dive in the day-by-day sections below.
- 🏔️ Perito Moreno Glacier walkways + mini trek: The main event — paved balcony paths overlooking the glacier from every angle, where you stand and listen to the ice crack. ~$70/person, 3–5 hours.
- 🚢 Captain's Club VIP glacier cruise: One of my favorite things I did in all of Patagonia — sailing up to the glaciers with whiskey on glacial ice.
- 🦩 Laguna Nimez nature reserve: Easy birdwatching loop right near town — flamingos, foxes, and the best sunrise reflections in El Calafate. ~$10/person, 1–2 hours.
- 🥾 El Chaltén day trip: Fitz Roy viewpoints for hardcore hikers — ~3 hours north, doable as a long day trip. $50–80/person round-trip bus, full 12–14 hour day.
- 🐴 Estancia culture: Gaucho ranches, horseback riding, lamb dinners by fire — pure Patagonian tradition.
- 🛶 Kayaking at Perito Moreno: Paddle near the glacier face in drysuits with guides — more expensive than Bariloche, but this is glacier kayaking. $180–220/person, 2–3 hours on water.
🏨 Where to stay
Rochester Hotel CalafateWe stayed at Rochester Hotel Calafate — a modern, polished mid-range hotel with big lake views. It's slightly outside town center (about a 25-minute walk or 5-minute taxi), but it's comfortable, stylish, and feels more resort-like than most mid-range spots.
Imago Hotel & Spa is right across the street from Rochester — a comfortable lakeside hotel with a full wellness focus. Great pick if you want mid-range comfort with real relaxation features — indoor heated pool, full spa, sauna, and gym.
One of the most famous luxury lodges in all of Argentina — on the Relais & Châteaux list and the Michelin Guide. Sitting on 10,000 acres of private land between El Calafate and Perito Moreno Glacier, it's total silence — just you and Patagonia. Full room-and-board, horseback riding, guided hikes, a top-tier restaurant, and sunrise views that are unreal.
Estancia culture in Patagonia
Estancias are traditional, often generationally-owned Argentine ranches — usually thousands of acres — where gauchos work livestock. Many are still fully operational, and a handful have opened to travelers as boutique lodge-style experiences without losing their cultural roots.
It's rustic luxe — not spa luxury, but fireplaces, gourmet meals, handcrafted furniture, and warm hospitality.
What you do at an estancia: Long, open-range horseback rides, hikes to private viewpoints, sheep-shearing demos, homestyle lamb dinners, Malbec by the fire, and the freedom to wander thousands of acres like it's your own land.
- 🐑 Working estancias: Real, functioning ranches where you experience genuine gaucho life. Example: Estancia Nibepo Aike
- 🏇 Historic estancias with tourism: Tourism-forward with beautiful dining, hiking, and horseback riding. Example: Estancia Cristina
- ✨ Estancia-style luxury lodges: Inspired by estancia life but are high-end hotels. Example: EOLO Patagonia's Spirit
Where to shop in El Calafate
The main shopping drag is Avenida del Libertador — boutiques, outdoor gear shops, chocolate stores, and souvenir spots line the whole street.
What to buy: Patagonian wool sweaters and scarves, leather goods, locally made chocolates, handmade ceramics, calafate-berry jams (the town is named after the berry), and small-batch mate accessories.
Artisan market: Paseo de Artesanos has woven textiles, wooden goods, and locally made crafts. It's small but worth a walk-through.
Calafate scenery
































El Calafate · Day 6
Arrive + lakeside lounging
You just get to your hotel, unpack, and chill for a minute. The hotel is really cool — ranch style, very Argentinian. Not crazy luxury like Bariloche but it's nice and authentic.
The town is about a 25-minute walk from the hotel, or you can grab one of the free shuttles — every time I walked outside, somebody had a cab ready to go.
Exploring town
The main strip in El Calafate has a lot of cute places — bars, restaurants, little shops. It's walkable and casual.
There's also Laguna Nimez — a bird sanctuary right at the edge of town. Easy boardwalk loop, flamingos, foxes, incredible sunrise reflections. Everyone in our group did this walk and raved about it. The bird nerds particularly liked it.
Wildlife on the steppe
The steppe here is like Patagonia's version of a desert safari. Animal spotting is low-key incredible: condors, flamingos, guanacos, foxes, and Chilean eagles. We saw all of them except the flamingos.
Where to eat in El Calafate
El Calafate has more good restaurants than you'd expect from a town this small. Here are the three we kept going back to.
ToloOut near the lake. Long table outside, wide open interior with wooden everything, upper level that overlooks downstairs. We really liked the vibe, the food was good, the staff was fun. We drank a lot here. Kept coming back.
Really cute bar-restaurant on the lake with a view that makes you feel like you're definitely in Patagonia. Fireplace inside and firepit outside. We definitely ate a late dinner here one night. Cool bar area.
We thought it was so bizarre that we were eating Korean food in Patagonia, but it was really, really good. Our entire group fit in the outside area, basically taking it over as a private party. Solid bibimbap and bulgogi, heated outdoor porch, and they handled our big group without breaking a sweat.






























Day 7
Walk on Perito Moreno
Perito Moreno glacier mini trek
A 1.5-hour beginner-friendly hike on top of Perito Moreno with crampons strapped to your boots. I highly suggest mini over big if you're not an avid outdoors person — it was still a 10-hour day.
Here's how the day works: buses leave early morning from your hotel and the drive is about 1.5 hours through stunning Patagonian landscape. Once you arrive at Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, you take a 20-minute boat across the lake to the glacier base. Everyone snaps a photo at the park sign on the way in — it's obligatory.
From the boat you head to the first base area and walk around the catwalks and viewpoints — the scale of this glacier is honestly insane, and you can hear it cracking and groaning the whole time. Then you hike up to a higher staging point where the guides strap crampons onto your boots and give you a quick lesson on walking on ice.
Then you're actually hiking on the glacier. I'm not super outdoorsy and glacier trekking was never on my list, but it's actually pretty magical. I've never felt so small, standing on top of this giant block of ice.
You'll walk past crevasses, seracs, sinkholes, and little turquoise lagoons that form in the ice. Keep your eyes peeled for the vagina in the glacier.
At the end of the trek, the guides break out a bottle of whiskey and pour everyone a celebratory glass — on the rocks 😉 with ice chipped right off the glacier.
After the trek, you take the boat back and head to the lodge area, which is where you'll eat the sad hotel lunchbox. But the scenery makes up for it — this is where you'll spot the wildlife. We saw a fox, which was exciting. We used all of our animal instincts to sneak up as quietly as we could because obviously he would be scared of us. When one of us slipped up and made noise, he looked over, saw us, took a shit, and laid down and took a nap.
Make sure you take plenty of photos today — your backdrop doesn't get more scenic than this.
Big Ice trek
The longer, advanced glacier expedition that takes you deep into the interior of Perito Moreno. We didn't do this one, but if you're a serious hiker, this is bucket-list level — you'll spend 3–4 hours on the ice and cover way more ground than the mini trek.
Where to eat dinner in El Calafate
After a full day of glacier trekking and sad lunchboxes, you've earned a proper dinner. La Zaina is one of the best restaurants in El Calafate.
La Zaina is built inside a converted Patagonian barn — all weathered wood and eclectic vintage decor that makes it feel like a cozy museum of local history.
The star of the menu is their lamb braised in Malbec for over four hours — it literally falls off the bone. Go for the lamb sorrentinos and the trout.
The wine list is serious (this is a wine bar at its core), and the service is genuine Patagonian hospitality.
Oh, and the whole restaurant is 100% gluten-free — not that you'd ever know it.
Day 7 photos


































Day 8
Captain's Club Cruz del Sur glacier cruise
Day 7 was about being on the glacier. Day 8 was about seeing it from the water. They have almost nothing to do with each other.
We did the Captain's Club Cruz del Sur through Solo Patagonia — the premium tier of the glacier cruise. Smaller group, better deck access, and a private dining stop at Refugio Spegazzini. The route crosses Lago Argentino past the full front face of Perito Moreno — from the water you finally see the entire 5-kilometer wall at once, which you cannot get from the walkways. Then deeper into the lake toward Spegazzini Glacier, which is taller, quieter, and somehow more dramatic.
Do both days. Don't pick one. The trek and the cruise are answering completely different questions.
Lunch at Refugio Spegazzini
The boat docks at a small wooden lodge right at the waterline below Spegazzini Glacier. You walk off and you're there — Refugio Spegazzini, run by Solo Patagonia, only reachable by boat. Three courses, wine, and a wall of ice out every window. It doesn't feel like a real place. This is the meal that made every other restaurant feel slightly less impressive for the rest of the trip.
Ushuaia
End of the world. Walk-on penguins. Next trip.
Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world. It sits where the Andes run into the Beagle Channel, and it has the only place in Argentina where you can walk among penguins on land — not from a boat, on land. Magellanic penguins at Isla Martillo who have never learned to care about humans.
We did not make it to Ushuaia on this trip. We are still not over it.
Quick facts
- 📍 Location: Tierra del Fuego province, Argentina — the southernmost city in the world
- ✈️ Fly into: Malvinas Argentinas International Airport (USH) — ~3.5 hours from Buenos Aires
- 📅 Best time to visit: November through March (penguin season at Isla Martillo)
- ⏱️ How many days: 2 nights minimum — you need a full day for the Beagle Channel + Isla Martillo excursion
- 📌 Book Isla Martillo early: Limited daily permits — sells out weeks ahead in peak season
Getting to Ushuaia
Flights from El Calafate take about 1.5 hours if you're connecting straight from the glaciers. We estimate prices at ~$297 for two (~$148 per person) on Aerolíneas Argentinas.
Search flights to Ushuaia (USH) below:
Getting around Ushuaia
Ushuaia's city center is walkable — Avenida San Martín has the restaurants, shops, and chocolate stores, and most of it covers in 20 minutes on foot. For anything outside town — Tierra del Fuego National Park, the End of the World Train, or the ski resorts — you'll need a taxi, remise, or organized excursion.
Taxis run on meters and are reliable. Remises (private car services) quote a fixed price upfront — confirm before you go. Local buses exist but run limited routes and schedules can be loose, so they're better for getting around town than reaching attractions. Most visitors book excursions that include pickup and drop-off anyway.
How many days in Ushuaia
Two nights, minimum. This itinerary is for 2 days, but if you can swing a third, add the End of the World Train (Tren del Fin del Mundo).
Where to stay
- 🏨 Los Cauquenes Resort & Spa: The high-end pick — sits right on the Beagle Channel beach with mountain views and a full-service spa.
- 🏨 Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa: 5-star option up in the hills with panoramic views of the city and channel.
- 🏨 Tierra de Leyendas: A boutique 7-room lodge perched above the water with a warm, story-driven vibe.
Things to do
- 🐧 Isla Martillo penguin walk: Walk among Magellanic and Gentoo penguins on land — not from a boat. Limited daily permits, book weeks ahead. This is the reason to come to Ushuaia.
- ⛵ Beagle Channel navigation: Sail past the Les Éclaireurs Lighthouse, sea lion colonies, and cormorant islands with views of the Chilean coastline. Usually combined with the Isla Martillo visit as a full-day excursion.
- 🌲 Tierra del Fuego National Park: Forests, lakes, and the Senda Costera coastal trail — 8 km of lenga beech trees, coves, and Beagle Channel views. Feels like the true end of the world.
- 🚂 End of the World Train: A historic narrow-gauge railway that follows the route once used by Ushuaia's prison inmates through subantarctic forest.
- 🏔️ Martial Glacier hike: Short trail with panoramic views of Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel, and surrounding peaks. Easy to fit in if you have a half-day free.
Where to shop
Avenida San Martín is the main drag — duty-free shops, outdoor gear stores, chocolate shops, and souvenir spots line both sides. Ushuaia has duty-free status, so perfumes, electronics, and spirits are noticeably cheaper than the rest of Argentina.
For something more local, the Artisans' Fair (Feria Artesanal) next to the pier sells handmade wood carvings, native ceremonial masks, Patagonian wool knitwear, and the inevitable penguin figurines. Tierra de Humos on San Martín has handcrafted items and regional products that actually feel like Patagonia, not an airport gift shop.
Day 9
Arrive Ushuaia
Our travel agent Silvana Martinez helped design this part of the Patagonia trip for when we go back.
Day 9 is intentionally slow. Day 10 is the full day — Beagle Channel navigation, Isla Martillo penguins, Tierra del Fuego National Park. You want to arrive rested.
Where to eat — dinner
Ushuaia is known for king crab (centolla) — caught right in the Beagle Channel, on every menu, and genuinely worth the hype. Kaupé is the most recommended first-night dinner in town. Order the centolla. That's the whole instruction.
Day 10
Beagle Channel + Isla Martillo penguins + Tierra del Fuego National Park
This is the day. Morning is the Beagle Channel navigation — small boat, out past the Les Eclaireurs lighthouse, past sea lion colonies on the rocks, and then you land on Isla Martillo for the penguin walk. Afternoon is Tierra del Fuego National Park and the drive out to Lapataia Bay, where Route 3 ends at the water. Both happen in one day without feeling rushed.
Isla Martillo penguin colony
The only place in Argentina where you walk among penguins on land. Magellanic penguins nest at Isla Martillo from November through March and they are completely unbothered by humans. The guides walk you through the colony on marked paths and the penguins go about their business right next to you. Some will cross directly in front of you. You will stand completely still and try not to make a sound.
Beagle Channel navigation + Les Eclaireurs lighthouse
The Beagle Channel is the stretch of water between Argentine and Chilean Tierra del Fuego, and it looks like the edge of the world because it basically is. The Les Eclaireurs lighthouse sits on a small island mid-channel and gets called "the lighthouse at the end of the world" for good reason. The sea lion colonies on the rocks nearby are loud, chaotic, and completely worth stopping for.
Tierra del Fuego National Park + Lapataia Bay
Tierra del Fuego National Park is the only national park in Argentina with a coastline on the Beagle Channel. The afternoon drive goes through forest and past lakes and ends at Lapataia Bay — where Route 3 stops. The Pan-American Highway starts in Alaska and ends right here, at a sign next to the water. You take the photo. It's exactly as good as it sounds.
So that’s your perfect 10-day Patagonia itinerary — four cities, glaciers you can walk on, penguins you didn’t know you needed to see, and more wood-fired steak than any one trip should reasonably include. Below, we’ve broken down every cost so you know exactly what to budget — flights, hotels, activities, and the optional travel agent fee that made the whole thing effortless.
How We Booked Flights
International flights · Points redemptions · What we paid
International flights to Buenos Aires are not included in the price breakdown below because we used points — and got an extremely good deal. Here's exactly how we did it.
✈️ Getting to Argentina
US → Santiago, Chile → Buenos Aires (AEP)
🏠 Getting Home
Washington DC → Salt Lake City → San Francisco
What this trip actually costs
For two people sharing a hotel room. All prices in USD.
Customize your itinerary
✈️ Domestic Flights
Aerolíneas Argentinas · ~$297/flight for two¹
¹ Domestic flight prices on Aerolíneas Argentinas were roughly the same per leg. We paid $890 total for two people across three flights and divided evenly.
² All prices are for two people traveling together and sharing a hotel room.
Ready to book your flights to Patagonia?
Search Buenos Aires (EZE) for the best fares
As always, if you have any questions about this Patagonia itinerary or want specific recommendations, leave them in the comments and I’ll respond.
If you want to message me privately, I’ll respond on Instagram @The.HauteBohemian
This blog may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
This helps support the blog and allows me to continue creating content. Read my full disclosure for more info and thank you for your support.






































































































0 Comments