This is part 2 of a 3-series ultimate Thailand trip planning blog
for the Basics: see General Info to Know When Planning Your Trip to Thailand
for your ultimate 3-week itinerary see these blogs:
Welcome to the Land of Smiles! The jewel in Southeast Asia, where street food is Michelin-star worthy, the people are legitimately always happy, everywhere you go is on the beach, and your money takes you a lot further than it does at home.
After doing a ton of research and planning, and then spending a combined 2 months in Thailand, I wanted to pass my knowledge off about Thailand trip costs and planning to anyone planning to come visit this beautiful country.
This blog is about luxe travel at affordable prices, particularly using credit card rewards to pay for hotels and flights, which offsets the trip substantially. After paying for our flights and some hotels with points, we spent $5,000 in cash on the 3-week trip for 2 people, taking private buses everywhere and staying in really nice accommodations. We ate a lot, drank a lot, and got massages 1-2x/ day. I saved my receipts and I'm going to include the pricing for everything that I have.
For the basics of planning your trip to Thailand check out this Thailand travel guide.
This blog contains the middle part of the ultimate 3-week Thailand itinerary, after Bangkok:
What is the ultimate 3-week Thailand itinerary?
Here is a Thailand trip map for your ultimate 3-week itinerary:
2. Khao Sok
After all the fine dining and messages it’s time to get out of the city and head to a national park with mild nature, beautiful scenery, and monkey gangs.
If you’ve been to Vietnam before, Khao Sok (pronounced “cow sock”) looks like Halong Bay, minus the booze cruises.
How to get there
Leaving Bangkok, this is going to be your only flight until the end of the trip, when you return to Bangkok to fly out. You need to fly into Surat Thani and take a taxi to Khao Sok, which your Khao Sok hotel will arrange for you.
All the Thai airlines are the same and the flight is an hour, so just book the cheapest flight with the departure time that you want.
Some logistics: when people talk about Khao Sok, they’re referring to either or both the town Khao Sok and or the national park Khao Sok. The proper way to do the region is to go into the park, which requires multiple nights because it’s a little bit of a trek to get here.
Once you land at the airport the drive is about 2 hours (have your Khao Sok hotel book it for you), and then to get into Khao Sok park from Khao Sok town it's a 40-minute boat ride. These durations sound short, but the trips have to be done at certain times, of which there aren't many options during the day (the boat only leaves in the AM, for example), so it becomes a little restrictive and takes some planning.
Some people come stay here for a few days, which I think is kind of boring. You can do animal viewing treks but I don’t think you really see too much. Other people might come here and relax, but I’m not great at that either, and everything is really expensive in the park, as you'll see below.
The minimum if you want to do the park is to stay in the town the first night, go into the park the second night, and stay in the town again on the third night. This is what we did.
Where to Stay
Khao Sok Town:
$100
In Khao Sok town, this hotel is made up of tree houses and riverside bungalows and has a bar, restaurant, and massage sala - all set in the rainforest.
The rooms are great. They’re ‘eco-friendly,’ which means a little shotty, but they were a level up from the basic that is most hotels in Khao Sok town, and they match the camping/ adventure vibe. This place is ideal for nature lovers and hippies, as it promises an immersive experience in one of Thailand's most beautiful natural settings. Massages were good, although the beds were just like mats on the ground. And food was good.
The hotel provides (or connects the dots for) activities like jungle trekking, river tubing, and wildlife spotting. We did a river float, which was relaxing, something to do, but not something to go out of your way for necessarily. Although we did see monkeys. We stopped halfway for a “coffee break” where the guy takes 1/2 hour to build black coffee, which turns about to be Nestle pre-made but it was cute and $10 per person. If I was in party mode I would have gotten wine and ice.
The room was $103 for 1 night, and our bill at checkout was an additional $103 for transportation from Surat Thani, two 1-hour massages, express laundry, and dinner & drinks.
One thing I have to mention is the monkeys. They run this town like a street gang. The signs at the hotel tell you not to leave food in your room, so of course my husband stashed chocolate to go with his bourbon and when we came home from the river float there was a gang of monkeys outside of the room and they didn't want to let us in. My husband pushed through but I was left behind, afraid for my life. I went to the front but the Thai people didn’t care about me. My husband said that at one point two of the monkeys were pushing to get into the room and he was pushing back and they almost got in. He’s 200 lbs.
You can book Our Jungle House here.
Khao Sok Town:
$180
I recommend booking this super elevated Japanese Glamping spot for when you get back from the park.
Our room was basically a really well-constructed 2,000 square foot, 2-story wood and concrete house with a climate-controlled yurt.
There was a giant hammock built into the second story with beautiful views of the countryside and mountains, and there was another viewing area with a swinging chair that was definitely built for Instagram, downstairs next to the giant bathroom, complete with a free-standing bathtub backed up to the open jungle.
They have a ton of really fun gourmet mochi snacks and Japanese-inspired coffees in the lobby, which really does look Japanese with its pristine coy pond and sand gardens.
You can book Tanoshi here.
Khao Sok National Park:
$200
The holy grail in Khao Sok National Park is the floating hotels on the lake Ratchaprapha.
Panvaree is mid-range, and if you’re here during high season, mid-range means $400-$600 per night. It was a really unique experience, but as I said I would have gotten bored spending more than 1 night there. The food was okay, and if you’re sick of Thai beer, make sure you bring your own alcohol so you don’t pay $80 for two $8 bottles like we did.
It was $360 for the night, which was the most expensive place we stayed in Thailand, and not necessarily my favorite. I never really felt clean, like the shower situation was giving camping, but if you’re planning on coming to Khao Sok National Park and you don't want to camp this is probably your best bet.
You can book Panvaree Resort here.
Find more Khao Sok hotels here:
Where to eat
$10 for dinner and drinks for 2 people
This is one of the higher-rated restaurants in Khao Sok town. The food was great, but I think all the restaurants are similar in Khao Sok town. Our favorite part of the experience was the 7-year-old kid running the restaurant, yelling at the adult staff, and serving us beer.
Our tab was $10 for papaya salad, red chicken curry, and 3 Thai beers.
$29 per person for class and dinner
The cooking class on this guy's farm was so fun. We met friends there, drank, cooked, learned some stuff, and made an amazing dinner, with basically all the different Thai dishes that exist.
The owner’s wife died a year ago, and it was sweet to see him and his daughters carrying on the family legacy. He was so funny and cool - typical Thai. He even related super well to the kids in the class. They separated the families from the single adults, which made it more fun I think.
It was a really fun experience, and cheap! The property was beautiful, and you can actually stay there, but I think the bungalows are basically camping.
Our tab was $57 for 2 people.
What to do
$57 for a half-day
The Khao Sok Elephant Sanctuary calls itself "a safe haven where our elephants are retired from work, and living in the harmony of the rainforest." I didn’t make it but this is one of the few elephant experiences that I felt wasn’t abusive so I would like to check it out someday.
3. Phuket
After Khao Sok it's time to make your way south, to the islands. 🏝️
Phuket is Thailand’s largest island, billed as stunning beaches, vibrant nightlife, and rich cultural heritage. But Phuket is actually pretty gross, and the hub for European sex tourism and raunchy nightlife. If you’re doing a quick and precise trip to Thailand, skip Phuket. But if you’re doing a 3-week overland trip, you go through Phuket anyway so you should stop here for the Yona Beach Club, the Big Buddha, world-class diving, and great food.
How to get there
Have you Khao Sok hotel set up a private tour bus straight to your Phuket hotel. It's 3+ hours, depending on traffic, and should cost $50. You can also book here.
Where to stay
prices vary widely, from $500-$1,000
This is where I wanted to stay. It has beautiful mountainside thatched luxe clay cottages, treehouses, and bird’s nest villas in the lush hills overlooking Kamala Village and the Andaman Sea, each with a private pool. The grounds has holistic wellness treatments at the Mala Spa, dine on organic cuisine, and partake in activities like yoga and Thai cooking classes.
But it was $700 when we finally got around to booking so we stayed in an Airbnb.
If you’re more responsible than me and book your trip early enough you can book the Keemala here.
$129
My next choice, coming in second at $129 per night was the Dinso Resort; which is a luxurious retreat located in the hills of Patong. Admittedly, Dinso was on my hit list because of this Instagram post:
This place has the utmost biophysically-designed accommodations, with hanging garden villas that blend modern amenities with natural elements. The resort features stunning infinity pools sweeping off the mountainside, a spa, a fine-dining restaurant, and panoramic views of the Andaman Sea, lush jungle, and Patong Beach.
You can actually reserve Dinso with IHG points if you have them, or book it right here using cash.
Find more Phuket hotels here:
What to eat
$20 for dinner and drinks for 2
This restaurant has 2 spots - one in Patong town and one up the hill, with a shuttle between them. Come here for great food in a casual indoor-outdoor atmosphere.
Our tab was $20 for a papaya salad, Tom Yan soup, 2 glasses of wine, a very decadent smoothie, and a fish bowl cocktail. As I told my husband, skip the fishbowl cocktail. Always.
$47 per person for cooking classes
We didn’t make it here but it’s a restaurant and cooking class in a colonial mansion. Classes include market tours and are only $ 47 per person.
Helmed by another female chef, which we love. The menu features Thai classics with a side of contemporary creations. Notably steamed purple dumplings, seasonal seafood, and massaman lamb curry.
What to do
$57 for 2 people for a 2-hour massage
This spa has everything from traditional Thai to aromatherapy to herbal compress massages.
$5 full-day pass to the amenities
This spa combines traditional Thai healing practices with modern amenities, featuring a range of facilities including a lemongrass steam sauna, dry sauna, cold bath, outdoor pool, and relaxation zone with comfortable lounge beds.
This is exactly what it sounds like. A beach where a lot of monkeys live and where you can interact with them. I was excited to do this, until I looked on TripAdvisor and saw that every other picture is of a monkey bite or an antiviral medication.
I posted it on IG and the comments started coming in about all the horror stories people I know have experienced on Monkey Beach. We decided to skip it, but if you’re a daredevil it’s probably a bit of a rush.
Here are the instructions of a pro-Monkey Beach blogger if you’re going to brave the monkey gangs.
Big Buddha
The Big Buddha is a majestic 45-meter-tall statue located atop Nakkerd Hill near Chalong. Made of white Burmese marble and with panoramic views of Phuket Town, Kata, Karon beaches, and Chalong Bay, this site is a significant religious landmark.
World-class diving
If you’re into diving Phuket is a must-do. Popular spots include the Similan Islands, known for stunning coral reefs and abundant fish species, and Racha Islands, ideal for beginners with their calm waters.
$85 per person
Yona is basically a really high-end beach club on a yacht. This place is AMAZING; done so well. It’s beautiful, clean, not trashy at all like the rest of Phuket. The food was so good and the drinks were fresh af.
They even have the whole place lined with palm trees to give it that really upscale expensive feel, like they didn’t spare an expense.
There is a 22-meter infinity pool running through the entirety of the boat, white chaise loungers and cabanas, a restaurant, and a few wading pools that look like jacuzzis but are tepid. The design is minimal fancy and beautiful to the point where it’s hard to tell the renderings from the actual photos.
The reservations are confusing. The cost for us was theoretically $85 per person starting but we paid $461 for entry for 4 people, even though we were only 2 of us, because we wanted a cabana so we didn't fry and the minimum for a cabana is 4 people. However, this price comes with $288 food and drinks credit, which we spent exactly during the 8 hours we were there.
So check the options and know that if you want a cabana you need to book for at least 4 people, and check what food and drink your reservation comes with to see the true price.
We were also a little confused about the timetable because you have to make a reservation for the beach club for a certain time, and then there are also options to make reservations for the restaurant. Basically the ‘beach club’ res is just your reservation to get out on the boat. You can choose any time you want to depart and then you can actually depart whenever you want (they pick up every ½ hour from shuttle boats from Royal Phuket Marina), and you can stay until it closes.
For the restaurant, you can just make a reservation when you get there and even if you can't get a reservation you can just order to your chair or cabana.
The food was a mix of things, but it was all great. We got the Yona Sushi Boat, as well as the Yona Massaman Curry, a mezze platter, and wagyu beef tacos. All seriously 10/10 food.
During the day you can expect a lot of influencing and beautiful people who have had work done, walking around taking pictures of themselves. As it gets dark an even more shallow and rowdy crowd will start rolling in and the DJ comes on and it turns into a nightclub, with cage dancers, acrobats, fire dancers, etc.
Yona opens at 12 and ends at 8 and we stayed the entire 8 hours. This is the reason we braved trashy Phuket for 2 nights and I would do it all over again.
Hype is a cheaper, trashier version of Yona. We did Yona instead but you can reserve Hype here if you’re young and more fun than me, or you want to save some cash.
4. Koh Phi Phi
You should know Koh Phi Phi from the Leonardo DiCaprio movie, The Beach. If you haven’t seen it, and you’re thinking about going to Thailand, close your laptop and go watch it immediately. And after you buy your tickets, order the book by Alex Garland and read it on the plane.
and if you've already seen it here's the sequal:
Koh Phi Phi was my favorite part of Thailand when I came here 10 years ago. Since then I’ve steered everyone who asked in the direction of Phi Phi, but I've had some negative reporting, as Phi Phi got majorly overrun and trashed. During the lockdown, however, it made a comeback, and the Thai government put some rules into place to make sure it didn’t revert back post-pandemic.
When I went 6 months ago it was as pristine as ever, although it was admittedly more crowded. But again, I was there in peak season.
How to get there
Koh Phi Phi is just an hour drive and a $11.85 per person, hour ferry ride from Phuket. You’ll need to schedule your overland and water transfers separately. Have your hotel book the car transfer and you can schedule your ferry here.
Where to stay
The nice hotels on Koh Phi Phi are a bit away from the main town, but you can get to town easily by boat or if you’re a walker, take it as an opportunity to burn off some of that Chang beer and pad Thai.
$50
Viking is a super cute beach-front hotel with bohemian vibes and really large, traditionally-decorated rooms. It’s a 10-minute boat ride or an hour walk from town. Getting between here and town wasn't a problem and it was quiet here if you value your sleep.
We paid $150 per night during peak season but it’s like $50 per night during regular season.
You can book Viking Nature Resort here.
$200
Zeavola is upscale to the point that it’s almost ridiculous. The resort offers the biggest luxury villas I’ve ever seen, set within the jungle, and with direct beach access. Amenities include an infinity pool, a spa, diving and snorkeling facilities, and gourmet dining options.
If you’ve got the cash and you’re looking to wine and dine yourself (or someone else), book Zeavola here.
$160
This expansive resort offers beachfront bungalows and hillside villas with stunning views. It features multiple swimming pools, a well-equipped fitness center, a spa, and several dining options, including a beachfront restaurant. It's up there in pricing and fanciness, but relative to the States it’s dirt cheap so treat yourself and book Saii Phi Phi here.
$170
If you’re American you probably scoff at Holiday Inns - and for good reason. But internationally, if Holiday Inn isn't on your radar, you’re missing out. They are typically cute and boutiquey. This particular one has large, stylish, luxe-basic beachfront bungalows with direct access to the beach and some with private pools.
You can book the Holiday Inn here.
Check out other Koh Phi Phi hotels:
Where to eat
I didn't go to a single restaurant in Koh Phi Phi this time, or last time because there is so much amazing street food. You can just walk into town and eat at the markets every time you’re hungry.
What to do
Massages
Get massages twice a day. Our routine on Koh Phi Phi was: eat, massage, eat, massage, drink, and then sometimes massage again, but I would usually fall asleep on the third round after a few drinks.
Monkey Bay
Again, if you have no fear, go to Monkey Bay and play with the monkeys, but prepare to get bit. If you want to see them get there early - the monkeys all ran up the side of the mountain, presumably to go home, right as we pulled up. (we got a late start)
$70
This is a non-negotiable. If you come to Koh Phi Phi you have to rent a long boat to go see all the islands, snorkel, and swim.
It’s a 4-8 hour trip, depending on how long you want to be out. You’ll go see Monkey Bay, Maya Bay, and some other spots. You get out and snorkel, swim, etc. The visibility is out of this world so prepare to see some exotic paradise fish.
We almost got a luxury boat but we didn't snag it in time and they were all booked up by the time we got to the island, so we went with a regular private boat, which is totally sufficient, but I cried about it anyway. The luxury longboat was only going to be $100 more than a regular boat and it looked so nice with pillows, food, and ice chests full of snacks but we didn’t reserve it in time.
Our mediumsy boat was $70 for 1/2 day. There were only 2 of us, but you can have about 12 people on the boat so you can do the math - it's cheap for groups.
Pro Tips:
Definitely book the luxe boat in advance
Make sure you order an ice chest - with ice - ahead of time, as well as wine if you want it. If you’re in a pinch you can just buy a dry bag and use it as a cooler.
Bring sunscreen, hats, music, and maybe snacks - it's a long day
It’s recommended to go early, like 7 or 8 AM, because of the weather and the fact that the boat inlets get increasingly more crowded as the day goes on.
You can just book a regular boat here, or you can book a fancy boat through Visa Travel (it's not that Visa Travel FYI).
Koh Phi Phi Viewpoint is one of the most popular attractions on Koh Phi Phi Don, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the island's twin bays, Tonsai Bay and Loh Dalum Bay. The viewpoint is situated about 186 meters above sea level and can be reached via a steep but rewarding hike.
You can do the hike in 20 minutes if you're in good shape, or 45 if you're fat or hungover. Or both.
You can see the whole island from the top. It's pretty beautiful. Especially during sunrise and sunset. Bring 30 bhat in cash for the entrance fee.
5. Krabi
After Koh Phi Phi you’ll start making your way to the peninsula, to get over to the gulf. You’re leaving the party area and going into mainland Krabi, where there is more jungle, less beach, and less party.
How to get there
Your Koh Phi Phi hotel will help you set up your water transfer to the mainland (ferry or speed boat), or you can book here. And your hotel in Krabi will set up the overland transfer from the ferry terminal to your Krabi hotel. The whole trip will take the good part of a day with layovers and mishaps.
Where to stay
$130
This is a great spot if you have IHG points to burn. The rooms are cute and it’s in a good location. I would rarely recommend a multinational chain in Thailand unless it's a big save but we saved a few hundred dollars and it wasn’t bad at all!
$200
The Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Krabi is a luxurious beachfront resort located in a secluded bay at Ao Nang. It’s accessible only by boat, so this is for serious mid-trip relaxing. You’ll look out to stunning views of limestone cliffs and the Andaman Sea.
$600
This was definitely my #1 pick for Krabi hotels, but I’m not in that tax bracket yet.
Rayavadee is a luxurious five-star resort surrounded by jungle and bordered by three beautiful beaches: Phranang, Railay, and Nammao. It’s designed in traditional Thai style, and accessible only by boat.
This is where the famous cave restaurant The Grotto is located (more on that below), as well as Raitalay Terrace for lighter bites and drinks on the beach.
Check out the other Krabi hotels:
What to eat
This restaurant housed inside of a cave is easily the most luxurious dining experience in the area. Set against the unreal backdrop of the Andaman Sea and dramatic cliffs, you’re served up seafood and international dishes, with a special emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The Grotto is particularly famous for its barbecue nights so check out their calendar if you’re in town.
During regular seasons anyone can eat here, but at peak season, “through until 30th April 2024,” you have to be staying at the hotel.
Ao Nang Landmark Night Market
Back to reality if you’re not rich. The night markets.
Ao Nang is my favorite night market I’ve ever been to. They had everything and it’s all so good. And cheap af like - for food - but relative to night markets in Thailand it’s a little pricey. For example, scorpions were $8.
It’s open from late afternoon to late at night, and is famous for its pad thai, mango sticky rice, and grilled seafood, as well as fresh fruit juices and cocktails. You’ll see tons of art and this-and-that to buy, as well as live music and cultural performances. Bring cash.
What to do
Railay Beach - accessible only by boat - is known for its stunning limestone cliffs, clear turquoise waters, and soft sandy beaches. It's less touristy than Krabi and is famous for rock climbing, with routes for all skill levels, and for kayaking, snorkeling, and exploring caves.
Also known as Wat Tham Sua, this Buddhist temple is an important religious site in the region. It’s named after the tiger paw prints found in the temple complex which includes several caves, monk cells, and a main temple.
One of its most notable features is the 1,237-step climb to the viewpoint that houses a large golden Buddha statue. Visit early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat, and make sure to cover your shoulders and knees. No Chang tanks, boys.
Entry is free, but people leave a donation at the entrance.
Explore the cave by yourself or take this tour that includes lunch at Kula Kasai, and a private soak at the Wareerak Hot Springs, as well as round-trip transfers from your hotel and a private guide.
This picturesque route offers stunning views of the Andaman Sea, lush forests, dramatic limestone cliffs, and - more monkeys. The trail is relatively short but involves climbing wooden steps and navigating through forested areas, so wear shoes.
The start of the trail is at the southern end of Ao Nang Beach, near the Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Krabi. If you're on Ao Nang Beach, walk towards the rocky outcrop at the southern end of the beach. The entrance is marked and you’ll see wooden steps leading up into the forested area, which is the beginning of the trail. The trail ends at Pai Plong Beach, a less crowded beach in case you want to escape the busier Ao Nang Beach.
Go early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and rain.
6. Surat Thani
Krabi to the Gulf islands is a bit of a trek so we’re going to break it up with a 1-night stay at an overwater bungalow hotel in Surat Thani. There’s not much there so use this time to recharge, relax, and maybe map out the rest of the trip if you still need to.
How to get there $80
Have your hotel set up a private bus for the 3-hour drive from Krabi. It should be $80 in peak season and less in regular season.
Where to stay
$100
This is where you stay in a thatched luxe bungalow on a river. This place is so cute and underrated. While it looks like something out of a Vietnam movie, the inside of the bungalows are actually really modern. Perfection, in my world. They do zero advertising but this place is awesome for a relaxing layover between the gulf and Krabi. we actually spent Christmas day here, hence the hats.
The bungalows on the hill are bigger and probably nicer but get the ones on the river. It’s an experience falling asleep on the water and waking up to a blanket of river mist.
They have kayaks and jet skis that you can use for free which is awesome because you could explore the river for miles. We took the kayaks out because someone had apparently crashed the jet ski the day before.
The “restaurants” there are all the same. They’re just different buildings run by the same people with the same food, which is great. Large prawns is the thing here. You choose them from the tank and they cook in the back but they also have all the other Thai food.
My one disappointment was that they don’t have massages there. You would have to go into town which is 45 minutes away, so we just chilled. If you have 2 nights go into town for the night market and massages.
We paid $114.69 in peak season.
If overwater bungalows isn't your thing, you can check out other Surat Thani hotels here:
For rest of the ultimate Thailand travel guide - 3 week itinerary, see these blogs:
and get your flight to Thailand!
As always, if you have any questions or want specific recommendations leave them in the comments and I’ll respond.
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