This is part 1 of a 3-series ultimate Thailand trip planning blog
for the Basics: see General Info to Know When Planning Your Trip to Thailand
for your ultimate 3-week itinerary see these blogs:
Welcome to the Land of Smiles! The jewel in Southeast Asia, where street food is Michelin-star worthy, the people are legitimately always happy, everywhere you go is on the beach, and your money takes you a lot further than it does at home.
It’s not uncommon for people to come here and never leave, and you get that when you’re here. But that’s why we’re going to make our trip a quick 3-week in-and-out - so we don’t get stuck in the paradise that is Thailand.
After doing a ton of research and planning, and then spending a combined 2 months in Thailand, I wanted to pass my knowledge off about Thailand trip costs and planning to anyone planning to come visit this beautiful country.
This blog is about luxe travel at affordable prices, particularly using credit card rewards to pay for hotels and flights, which offsets the trip substantially. After paying for our flights and some hotels with points, we spent $5,000 in cash on the 3-week trip for 2 people, taking private buses everywhere and staying in really nice accommodations. We ate a lot, drank a lot, and got massages 1-2x/ day. I saved my receipts and I'm going to include the pricing for everything that I have.
For the basics of planning your trip to Thailand check out this Thailand travel guide for the following info:
What’s the best time to visit Thailand?
How is the weather in Thailand by month?
How much does a trip to Thailand cost?
What are the best flights to Thailand from the USA?
How is Thailand's transportation?
How many days do you need in Thailand?
Hotels or Airbnbs?
Should I do a Thailand tour holiday package or all-inclusive tours or resorts?
Is Thailand better for groups or couples?
What are the best elephant sanctuaries in Thailand?
Is Thailand safe?
Pro Tips
This blog contains only Bangkok of the following ultimate 3-week Thailand itinerary:
What is the ultimate 3-week Thailand itinerary?
Here is a Thailand trip map for your ultimate 3-week itinerary:
Bangkok
The city that never sleeps is marvelous, grandiose, and too large to explore in one trip.
Bangkok has a mountain of temples, a bazillion massage parlors (both happy and regular endings), shopping malls full of the best Thai dishes, drag shows, Michelin-star food, $1 pad Thai street food that rivals your favorite eats back home, rooftop pools, rooftop bars, rooftop restaurants, and rooftop hotels. I know people who have been visiting Thailand for years and still haven't seen all that Bangkok has to offer, so just do your best and get a taste of it. You can always come back.
That being said, I don’t think you need to spend a ton of your time here on your first Thailand trip. After all, you want to get to the islands. So here’s the plan for a 3-day Bangkok tour to kick off your trip.
How to get there
Use whatever points you have stashed to get at least a premium economy flight here, or open a credit card if you're points poor. It's a fucking long flight. Delta is a good option for Thailand.
Where to stay
$200
This luxury collection hotel is situated in the heart of the city and blends Thai culture with modern elegance. The rooms are old but sturdy, if you know what I mean, and the downstairs is magnificently large with an old-timey bar and an impressive breakfast. It’s close to attractions such as Lumpini Park, shopping districts like the Central Embassy, and BTS Skytrain stations, making it super convenient.
The Athenee Spa offers a range of treatments and therapies inspired by Thai wellness traditions, and in the same area, there is an outdoor swimming pool set in a lush garden rooftop and a fitness center with amazing morning views for your first few days of jetlag when you wake up at 3 AM.
$160
This Hilton is right on the river. The area is great and so are the breakfast and the happy hour - free if you have status. The happy hour lounge looks over the Chao Phraya River and you can see Asiatique Bangkok and the ICONSIAM shopping mall from your room.
Each room has floor-to-ceiling windows providing panoramic views of the river or city skyline and it’s a short (complimentary) boat ride away from the BTS Skytrain station.
It has a 'cheese room' (weird, I know) and riverside terrace on the 32nd floor, next to the ThreeSixty Lounge, where they hold the happy hour. I highly recommend going to this if you have the option, as it has breathtaking 360-degree views of Bangkok.
The hotel has a stunning infinity pool overlooking the river, which is perfect for relaxing after your visit to the fitness center and the Eforea Spa.
If you’re planning your trip 3 months in advance, get the Hilton AmEx card so you can stay here for free.
$260
We loved this five-star hotel, located in the central business district, close to major shopping centers like CentralWorld and Gaysorn Village, and the BTS Skytrain station, and we got it for just 30k IHG points.
The rooms are elegantly designed and updated, complete with stunning city views, and the downstairs is large, with multiple areas, Oasis Pool Bar (with panoramic city views), to sit and have a drink and a snack while you’re waiting for people to get ready for your night out on the town.
The Spa InterContinental is luxury, the fitness center is great, and the concierge services are outstanding. Long-time maitre d, Mike is the most helpful person in the universe. He ran up to us as we were leaving because he heard we were going to the railway market and he wanted to make sure we saw the train passing. He wrote out the times that the train would go through the market so we didn't miss it - which we would have without him. Then when I told him I had been looking for an electrical converter and couldn't find one he flew to Phuket to get it for me.
$200
This hotel takes the cake in my book. This gargantuan building (I've always liked that word... 'gargantuan'... so rarely have an opportunity to use it in a sentence) has layers of rooftop and indoor bars, restaurants, and parties. Great for young people.
Luxurious, contemporary, and located in the trendy Thonglor district, the hotel offers stunning views of the Bangkok skyline from many of the rooms.
The Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar is a multi-level rooftop bar with panoramic views of the city, and which you’ve probably seen on Instagram and Pinterest. They serve up creative cocktails, tapas, and live DJ performances. The Quan Spa offers a range of treatments and the swimming pool is surrounded by a sundeck and bar, an idyllic place to relax and enjoy the views.
If you can afford to stay here, I highly recommend it. And if you can’t, get a Marriott credit card and stay here for free.
$80
This eco-friendly boutique hotel in Bang Krachao, known as Bangkok's "Green Lung," is surrounded by lush greenery and the Chao Phraya River.
The hotel features treehouse-style rooms and elevated structures, providing stunning views of the natural surroundings. The hotel uses recycled materials and solar power, and promotes eco-friendly practices which is cool, but also means you'll sacrifice some mod coms.
They serve organic, locally sourced food on a rooftop terrace, and offer free bicycles for exploring the area. It's near the Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market but it is about an hour from central Bangkok.
$140
Hotel Muse Bangkok is a luxury boutique hotel inspired by the opulent era of King Rama V, and combining classic European elegance with Thai heritage, which makes for an ultra-sophisticated and unique ambiance. Each room is adorned with vintage decor, luxurious amenities, and modern conveniences.
The Speakeasy Rooftop Bar and pool offers stunning city views, creative cocktails, and a lively social scene.
Check out more Bangkok hotels now:
Where to eat
Markets, markets, and more markets.
“When in Thailand, you eat at the markets.” - Gandhi
No, jk that was me, not Ghandi. But it’s true, when you’re in Thailand, at least half of your meals should be taken at the markets. They’re famous for a reason. The food is incredible, the culture is robust, and the prices are low.
Here are a few Bangkok markets for you to put on your hit list:
Unlike typical malls, Asiatique is an open-air market that allows visitors to enjoy the outdoors while shopping and dining. It combines a night bazaar and a mall, resulting in what I would call a gentrified version of a Thai market. Once a bustling international trade port, its buildings reflect a blend of colonial and traditional Thai architecture. It has more than 40 restaurants and food stalls offering a variety of cuisines, from traditional Thai dishes to international fare.
Asiatique is clean and ultra-modern, located on the Chao Phraya River, next to the river cruises. Its shopping and food are more expensive and not as good as other markets. It’s cute, but it’s not a real Thai market. This is a good place to start, but after that you’ll want to go to more authentic places.
The Tea Room is one of the most highly-rated restaurants in the area. It’s good, but nothing to write home about. If you want to do a dinner cruise or just a drink cruise this is a good time to do it. They’re a little overpriced but a cool experience if you want to see the city from the POV of the water.
If you’re in the neighborhood, check out the famous ladyboy cabaret show, Calypso Cabaret and the Asiatique Sky, which is one of the tallest Ferris wheels in Bangkok, providing panoramic views of the city and the river.
Asiatique opens in the late afternoon and stays open until later in the night, so beat the heat of the day and go during dinner time.
This is another gentrified market, known for its lively atmosphere, variety of street food options, and shopping. Come here for the pad thai, stay for the mango sticky rice, grilled seafood, and papaya salad.
The market often features live music and street performances and stays open until late at night. Come in the evening for the most vibrant energy. Prices here are generally reasonable, but bargaining is common so don’t hesitate to negotiate for a better deal.
Also known as JJ Market, Chatuchak is one of the largest and most famous markets in the world, spanning over 35 acres, Chatuchak features more than 15,000 stalls. We didn’t make it here but I wanted to put it on the list because it looked like a great night market. As the name suggests, it’s only on weekends.
Chatuchak is divided into 27 sections, each specializing in different types of goods, including clothing and accessories, antiques, handicrafts, home decor, pets, plants, books, art, food, and beverages. It has live music and cultural performances, as well as art stalls and galleries showcasing local artists’ work, with some creating pieces on-site.
Floating markets
The floating market might be my favorite experience in Thailand. If you’re not familiar and you haven't seen them on social, basically you get in a longboat and a driver hauls you around a - floating market - where you pull up to various stalls or other boats to purchase anything from beer to clothing to full meals to... lemurs… just to hold them…
If you want a guide you can do Khlong Lat Mayom & Chatuchak Tour in 1 day with this tour.
Okay, this market comes with a caveat. I know I keep saying this, but there’s a little bit of gentrification here - but - it’s only the beginning of the market. It’s broken up into 2 sections, the front part which is way more expensive and was created solely as a tourist trap. My husband had never been to Thailand before and he thought he was getting all these bargains, even though I told him he was overpaying 10x, but he was excited so I let him get ripped off in peace.
After the initial market, when the boat driver decides that they’ve extracted the max from you, you go through an over-water neighborhood, into another market. This is the real deal. Prices are 50% less here and it’s dirtier and grungier - which is a good sign.
This is the most touristy of the floating markets because of the James Bond movie that featured it, but I loved it. We spent about 2 hours in total. There’s an option to add a sugar cane and a Buddha tour after the boat, and they will try to pressure you into it before you enter the market, but we opted out and we were super happy about it.
We paid $100 for the boat, $20 for a bunch for $5 shirts, and our tab at one of the gentrified restaurants was $77 for prawns, rice, and 6 beers. This is kind of crazy expensive for Thailand. Some of the vendors are very pushy so be prepared to haggle and say no a lot. Have the most aggressive person in your group sit on the left. Also, in retrospect, I would have waited for the real market to sit down to eat. If you're hungry just buy from the ladies in the boat until you get to the real market.
This market is about 90 minutes away from Bangkok. I recommend renting a private van for the entire day through your hotel for $50 and visiting Damneon Saduak Floating Market and the Maeklong Railway Market (below).
Of if you want a guided tour of Khlong Lat Mayom and Maeklong Railway Market you can book here.
The Maeklong Railway Market, also known as the "Umbrella Pulldown Market" or "Talad Rom Hup" in Thai, was built before the Maeklong Railway was in 1904 and just stayed put after.
Vendors display their goods on tables and mats that spill over onto the tracks, and when the train comes through 8 times a day, the vendors just pack up and reassemble the entire market each time.
Stuff here is cheap. We got 2 soups and 2 waters for $0.40. There are some gifts and stuff to buy but it’s more of a produce market and lunch if you’re not afraid of weird food that comes in a fish bag.
Again, tours are available here if you want to go on autopilot and just enjoy.
Pro tips:
Train times are 6:20, 8:30, 9:30, 11:10, 11:30, 2:30, 3:30, and 5:00. Make sure you make it for one of those because you probably don’t want to spend 2-3 hours here.
Get dropped off at the Hiig Cafe, and stake your claim to an area to see the train because it gets completely packed and people are pushing and shoving when the train rolls through.
Don’t get hit by the train. It comes through super slow, but it is a moving train.
Do the same day as Damneon Saduak Floating Market. It’s about an hour and a half from Bangkok and it costs $50 to hire a driver for the whole day to take you around Bangkok, to the Damneon Saduak Floating Market and then to the Maeklong Railway Market, or vice versa depending on the train schedule.
Fine Dining
Supanniga Eating Room & Rongros are Michelin-recommended restaurants that are next door to each other and on the Chao Phraya River with a stunning view of Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn), in really beautiful buildings. Their menus feature family-secret recipes, and green curry with rib eye beef served with roti and the tangy glass noodle salad, respectively.
Rongros is known for being helmed by female chef Chef Parnichaya “Pam” Koompai, which is awesome, and has contributed to the restaurant's popularity and acclaim.
We got there about 1/2 hour before closing and they were both ‘closed’ already (I assume they were just booked) so we didn't get to eat there but I would go back just for these. If you go over there, make sure you’re earlier in the evening, maybe like 7:00, and eat at both - appetizers and one and mains at the other.
This Michelin-star restaurant with a traditional upper-crust vibe has been operating since 1957, and is known for preserving the heritage and recipes of classic Thai dishes, maintaining their authenticity over the decades.
The atmosphere was sophisticated and nostalgic, with live traditional Thai music and dance performances. The staff was rude. We didn't care about that but it's not somewhere you go for the service if that's important to you. Our pomelo salad, appetizer, and glass of wine was $15. They have specials Saturday and Sunday that are recommended by Michelin, if you’re there on the weekend.
$83 for an 8-course tasting menu
This classic Thai house has been written up for having affordable Michelin-mentioned food.
$14 cocktails at Moon Bar and $100 per person for 3-course set menu at Vertigo
$123 per night for the hotel
Formerly a helipad and currently one of the world’s best rooftop dining experiences, Vertigo and Moon Bar are on the 61st floor rooftop of the Banyan Tree Hotel and offer 360-degree city views of the city.
Start off with one of Moon Bar's signature cocktails and light bites before you head over to adjacent Vertigo - a grill serving gourmet dishes like Wagyu beef and seafood.
$217 tasting menu
Suhring is actually modern German fare by twin chefs Thomas and Mathias Sühring.
The restaurant is located in a beautiful villa, and combines contemporary German cuisine with traditional techniques. It features a $217 tasting menu, which highlights seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Known for its elegant ambiance and exceptional service, Suhring is often ranked among Asia’s best restaurants.
$92 per person
Located in Bangkok's COMO Metropolitan Hotel, Nahm is renowned for its authentic Michelin-star Thai cuisine crafted by Chef Pim Techamuanvivit and consistently ranks among Asia's best restaurants.
The restaurant features a sophisticated ambiance, offering dishes that blend traditional flavors with modern presentation. Highlights include intricate curries, seafood, and vibrant salads, all using locally sourced ingredients.
It’s $92 per person, which is great for Michelin-star food.
$290 for a 7-course menu, plus $200 for wine pairing
Le Normandie, located in Bangkok's Mandarin Oriental Hotel, is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant renowned for its exquisite French cuisine.
Chef Arnaud Dunand-Sauthier creates an elegant dining experience with views of the Chao Phraya River. The menu features refined dishes crafted with premium ingredients, emphasizing creativity and precision.
Dinner is $290 for a 7-course menu, plus $200 for wine pairing. While the dinner is considered borderline amazing, the wine list is considered to be just okay.
Michelin-Star Street Food
Yes, Michelin-star street food is a thing in Thailand. Street food vendors use traditional recipes and high-quality ingredients, demonstrating the cultural importance of street food, and resulting in the wide availability of gourmet-level dishes at affordable prices. And you should make eating it a cornerstone of your trip.
$14-$41 per dish
Jay Fai is inexpensive Michelin-star street food in an unassuming brick & mortar. It’s named after the female chef/owner - a quirky character, known for wearing her iconic black apron, beanie, and ski goggles, which she uses to protect her eyes from the heat and smoke of the charcoal stove. She's also famous for her hands-on approach, cooking every dish personally, over a charcoal fire, to ensure quality and consistency.
The fire adds a distinctive smoky flavor that she is known for. Her real name is Supinya Junsuta, but she goes by her nickname, which means "Sister Mole" in Thai, a nickname referring to a facial mole she has.
Signature items include the crab omelette, dry congee, and drunken noodles.
We were super excited to go eat with Jay Fai, but as we walked up we noticed a large crowd outside. Security was standing in front of the door and everyone outside was holding up their phones, recording. After doing some light stalking we found out that Lisa of Black Pink had closed it down to chow with some friends. So while I can’t give you my personal endorsement, I can say that if it’s good enough for Lisa, it’s good enough for you.
$5
Renowned for its smoky, flavor-packed Pad Thai, cooked over a high flame, this Bib Gourmand street food, run by a Michelin-star chef in an unassuming brick-and-mortar feels like hipster fast food in NYC. The waitress recommended the supreme grilled Berhshire pork pad Thai. It was $5, and I would have paid $40 for it.
The chef-owner Andy Yang is a Thai guy who spent time in NYC and his pad Thai is known for being “the best” everyone has ever had. It was pretty fucking good. Probably the best pad Thai I've ever had. And the chef has other restaurants in the city that I didn't get to try, but that you should.
Chef Yang added fine dining restaurant Table 38 to his portfolio in 2018, with the concept of “a modern interpretation of traditional Thai flavors at an intimate chef's table restaurant". Table 38 was rewarded with a Michelin star in 2020.
Cooking Classes
$45 per person
Despite the unappetizing name, this cooking class is highly acclaimed. It's run by a woman affectionately known as “Poo” (which actually just means crab in Thai) who grew up in one of Bangkok’s largest slums and started the cooking school to support her family and community. This 4-hour class includes a guided tour of the Klong Toey Market.
Cooking with Poo is more than just a cooking class; it’s a social enterprise aimed at providing job opportunities and skills to residents of Klong Toey. The revenue generated from the classes helps support various community projects. Poo has received international attention being featured in BBC, CNN, and The Guardian.
Where to drink
$50 for a glass of champagne
Okay this is one of those recos where I have to caveat it by saying that if you’re not into touristy stuff, this is not your place. Yes, it's the highest al-fresco restaurant in the world... Yes, it's bougie.. And yes The Hangover was filmed here; but it’s very overpriced. Like $50 for a flute of champagne and $500 pp for dinner overpriced.
If you are into touristy stuff then just do it. The views are incredible, and it’s so delightfully awkward having the girl who pours your champagne follow you around the rest of the night so she can take pictures for you if you ask. Just get one $50 flute of champagne and check it out and you’ll be in and out in 1/2 hour.
You have to make a res at the Champagne bar and then you can just go to Sky Bar (first come first serve) without buying a drink there.
Average price per cocktail $12
I didn’t make it here but it was on my list for all of its awards: the London Essence Best New Opening Award in 2023, No. 19 on The World's 50 Best Bars 2023, and No. 22 on Asia's 50 Best Bars 2023 lists.
Apparently the bar uses every part of its ingredients in a super creative way.
Another bar that I didn’t make it to - was on my list for being #19 of Conde Naste World’s 50 Best Bars.
Located at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River, this renowned cocktail bar is inspired by the glitz and glamour of Buenos Aires. It’s set in a stylish ambiance with garden-like surroundings and semi-outdoor courtyards. It has earned other accolades, as well. including ranking No. 3 on Asia's 50 Best Bars 2023, the Michter’s Art of Hospitality Award, and No. 13 on The World’s 50 Best Bars 2023 lists.
$54 for 6 drinks
I skipped the BKK Bar Crawl because I’m too old for bar crawls, only to find out after I got back to the States that it’s not a trashy party with Jager bombs and sweaty 21-year-olds.
It’s at The Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon, and it's a unique tasting experience across four venues within the hotel. They give you a drink passport, good for 6 drinks and small bites from bars including The Parlor, Mott 32, Double Standard, and Ojo Bar and Terrace, and you move around at your leisure.
But apparently the passport is worth more than 6 drinks. According to my friend who went there around the same time as me, when you have the passport the staff treats you like a king. You don’t have to wait in any lines, and they give you access to the VIP areas. While this is just hearsay, I’m definitely going to check it out next time I’m in the neighborhood.
$15 for a cocktails
Located on the 55th floor of Centara Grand at CentralWorld, this stunning rooftop bar has 360-degree city views, and is especially mesmerizing at sunset.
Known for its chic ambiance, the bar features gourmet dining with a menu of seafood, steaks, and international cuisine, and creative cocktails crafted by expert mixologists. The stylish design and live music create a sophisticated atmosphere.
What to do
$80 for a 3-hour treatment
I saw Divana Devine on TikTok because it has a $80 massage experience that was like 3 hours. I didn’t make it there but it’s on my list.
$114 for a 2-hour experince
Once Upon A Thai was a bright, clean, upscale-feeling salon with skilled therapists and a relaxing ambiance. It was only $114 for 2 of us to get a 2-hour experience with a scrub, massages, etc. Highly recommended.
For rest of the ultimate Thailand travel guide - 3 week itinerary, see these blogs:
and get your flight to Thailand!
as always, if you have any questions or want specific recommendations leave them in the comments and I’ll respond.
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