Spoiler alert: it wasn't the St. Pauli Girl
This fashion statement worn by busty party-goes is actually a frock for country bumpkins.
You’ve seen them in Charlie’s Angels, Heidi, Saint Pauli Girl, the Sound of Music, and your friends’ Oktoberfest IG stories.
But Where Do Those Oktoberfest Outfits Come From?
The history of the dirndl
The dress worn at beer festivals all over the world during the months of September and October is actually from Austria, South Tyrol, and Bavaria. It is called the Dirndl in its native language. The word once meaning “girl” in Bavarian German now refers to both the girl and the dress that she wears, demonstrating the importance of this outfit in Bavarian culture.
Contrary to the status of the modern Dirndl wearer — usually a young and beautiful partygoer — the Oktoberfest outfit is based on traditional garb of the Alps peasants.
The 19th-century sister dresses were slightly different, in the most important ways: they were plain, and they lacked the identifying characteristic of today’s Dirndl — the cleavage.
Styles ranged with their geographic origin. Towns, cities, and regions often produced their Dirndls with their respective colors or even emblems. They changed with the season as well, adding layers and depth in the winter and shedding them in the warmer months. The Dirndl is a quite practical article.
Since then, the Dirndl has made a comeback at a few events — one of the most important being the Gallery of Beauties — a collection of 26 portraits of the most beautiful women of the noble and middle classes of Munich between 1827 and 1850 — many which included women in Dirndls. The most famous one is a portrait of a shoemaker’s daughter — Helene Sedlmayr, who was considered the epitome of Munich beauty.
In the late 19th century noblewomen began to put an aristocratic spin on the Dirndl, and it turns out it is a highly adaptable piece of fashion. It has continued to evolve alongside modern taste with its popularity surging over the last few years.
It’s not considered a “frock for country bumpkins,” as German trend researcher Antje Schünemann puts it. Rather, the Dirndl is for the “urban, fashion-conscious types.”
The modern Dirndl
The modern Dirndl is most often in the style of the Landhausmod: country-inspired fashion. It is made up of a bodice, a blouse, a skirt, and an apron. The blouse is almost always white, and is low-cut and worn with a special bra to accentuate the bust.
The knot serves the purpose of tightening the apron, but is also communicating the availability of its inhabitant. Tied left indicates she is single, right is for taken. Front means she is a virgin and back means she is a widow. You’re welcome, ladies.
Where to buy a Dirndl dress
Popups appear around Dirndl season and the price point and quality of the Dirndl range from the $70 American Halloween Dirndl costume pre-packaged type to custom Dirndls that you get from appointment-only designers such as Nathalie Bault.
Nathalie’s dresses are made from high-quality fabrics such as silk, and priced around $2,000 USD.
FKK of Hamburg sells a much more muted, “understated fashion” version of the Dirndl. The apron is not present, and the blouse is integrated into the design. “We’ve brought the Dirndl to date,” says fashion designer Tobias Jopp. Jopp says FKK’s version of the Dirndl is casual enough that it can be worn to dinner or even to work.
Today fashion designers from Munich are continuing the evolution of the Dirndl. Lola Paltinger’s couture line, dubbed “Heidi goes to Hollywood” by the German press, uses only materials from her own creation: luxurious, partly hand-painted fabrics, combined with magnificent embroidery, buttons, and flower applications.
Her dresses come with a substantial price tag, and have been worn by stars such as Paris Hilton and Salma Hayek.
The lederhosen: because boys want have fun too
Commonly misspelled as ‘leiderhosen,’ this is the male version of the Dirndl. We all know this German outfit for men and it’s adorable.
The timeless tradition of the Lederhosen
Translating to “leather trousers,” the Lederhosen dates back to the 18th century. As with the Dirndl, it was worn by German and Austrian peasants. Contrary to the Dirndl, these sturdy garments were made to be practical for outdoor work due to their durability and ease of movement. Over time, the lederhosen transitioned from utilitarian workwear to a symbol of regional pride and cultural heritage.
The Anatomy of Lederhosen
Lederhosen come in various styles and lengths, but traditional pairs share common features:
Material
Typically made from tanned leather (deerskin, goatskin, or cowhide), which ensures durability. Deer and buck skin have the most street cred.
Length
Available in short (knee-length), kniebundhosen (ending just below the knee), and long styles.
Embellishments
Often adorned with intricate embroidery, particularly around the bib and pockets, reflecting regional patterns and motifs.
Suspender Straps
Most pairs come with H-shaped suspenders, sometimes featuring decorative buttons and metal buckles.
How to Wear Lederhosen
Embracing the lederhosen look involves more than just slipping into a pair of leather shorts. Here’s a quick guide to assembling the perfect ensemble:
Shirts
A classic white or checkered button-up shirt is a must. For a traditional look, opt for a slim fit.
Footwear
Haferl shoes, sturdy and made of leather, are the traditional choice. Pair them with wool socks, either knee-high or bunched around the ankles.
Accessories
Consider a traditional hat (Tirolerhut), featuring a feather or tuft of goat hair, and a charivari (a decorative chain) worn across the waistband.
Where to Buy Authentic Lederhosen
Don’t get a Lederhosen costume. Finding genuine lederhosen can be a rewarding endeavor. Look for stores specializing in traditional Bavarian clothing, either locally or online.
Notable brands and shops include:
Offers a blend of classic and modern interpretations of lederhosen.
Hammerschmid
Renowned for its attention to detail and use of premium materials.
Lederhosen in Popular Culture
Lederhosen have made their way into various facets of popular culture, from films and music to fashion runways. They are prominently featured during Oktoberfest, where both locals and tourists don their finest pairs to celebrate Bavarian tradition. Moreover, lederhosen have inspired contemporary designers, blending traditional elements with modern fashion trends.
Embracing Tradition with a Modern Twist
As always, if you have any questions or want specific recommendations leave them in the comments and I’ll respond.
If you want to message me privately, I’ll respond on Instagram @Le_Gipset
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